FAQ Part 3

FAQ - Part 3

YARN FAQ

What kind of yarn should I use? Cotton or acrylic? Wool or man-made? All kinds of yarn have their uses! Acrylic yarn is fine for most purposes. I use it for afghans a lot. I also use blends of wool and other fibers. Some people are allergic to wool, but if they are not, wool is perfect for warm afghans. If you’re working from a pattern, it will usually tell you what type will work best.

How can I tell if my yarn is wool or acrylic? You wouldn’t want to shrink or felt it in washing or use it in a product you’re making for someone with a wool allergy.

There are at least two ways of telling if your yarn is wool or acrylic.

1) Take a tiny snip of yarn, light it with a match. If it smells like burning hair, it’s wool. If it smells like plastic, it’s acrylic.

2) Put a few inches of yarn in a small jar of chlorine bleach. If it’s wool it will dissolve. If it is acrylic it won’t. If it is a blend, it will look like part of it has dissolved.

Where’s the center pull? I like a center pull, but manufacturers don’t ask me what I like, more’s the pity and sometimes skeins/hanks don’t have one. Even if they do have one, sometimes it’s hard to find that center thread in a skein of yarn. Of course, it’s good if you DO find it as it makes your tension smoother as you crochet. If you absolutely can’t find the center pull thread in a skein that should have one, you have options.

You can find the ending strand and rewind the yarn into a ball which would make it easier to unwind for crocheting. A yarn winder is a nice tool to have in your crochet arsenal for these instances. Be sure to wind loosely so you don’t stretch the yarn. If you don’t have a ball winder or just don’t want to do that, you could use the end thread as you work. Be sure to unwind enough for several stitches to keep your tension even. I have heard that if you use the ending thread you are using the thread in the opposite direction from which it was wound and thus not as it was intended to be used. Whether this will cause any problems, I don’t know.

If you are using a variegated yarn and you use one strand from the center pull and another from the end, in a continuous piece like an afghan, your colors may be backwards on one end. It’s good to check variegated yarn anyway as I’ve had some that were apparently wound in the opposite direction as my colors were in a different order on different skeins.

Before you pull your center thread out, look on the other side for a thread that is tucked into the skein. That is the ending thread. If you pull it out, when you grab your center pull you should have little trouble. If you forget to do that or it’s not obvious which is the ending thread, when you pull on the center thread it may be tight. If that is the case, as you pull on your center pull thread, look to see if a thread tightens at the opposite end. That would be the end tail which got caught around your center pull thread. If you can pull it out then, great. If not, just clip the yarn at the OPPOSITE end (not your center pull thread) just where it tightens. Be careful not to clip anything else. If you clip it, when you pull on your center thread, that small piece will come out. Just untangle it from your center pull thread and throw it away or use it for your magic ball. I don’t recall reading this suggestion anywhere before, but it happens to me all the time and I’m sure others must know this too.

On skeins that don’t have a center pull, I will sometimes dig in there and find it. I’m told this is not the best thing to do, but I do it anyway. I do like my center pull.

Should I wind all my yarn into balls? If you have a ball winder and it only takes you a few minutes, and you really want to, go ahead and wind all your skeins into balls (be sure to do it loosely not to stretch the yarn). Then put them into a paper bag or one of those gift bags, on the floor by your feet, as you work or use a yarn bowl. They now make yarn bowls in many sizes and materials. Yarn will roll around in the container and you won’t have to go chasing it around the room.

I use the center pull on my skeins whenever possible. I do ball the leftovers when finished with a project and I also ball yarn when I am frogging (ripping) a project. I will often put my skein in a plastic Ziploc bag as I find this helps with the end-of-skein mess you sometimes get. When I put the skein in a bag I have very little trouble.

Can I substitute one yarn for another? Short answer: Maybe. The best way to determine that is to make a gauge swatch. Not all yarns of any particular kind are equal, so whether your yarn will make a good substitute needs more consideration. Sometimes you can tell just by looking at the two yarns side by side. If size of your finished project is not a consideration - say it’s a scarf and it doesn’t matter if it’s a little off in size - then yes you can substitute any worsted weight yarn for any other worsted weight yarn; just know that the size may be slightly off what is noted in the pattern. If size IS a consideration, make a swatch and see if you get the gauge listed in the pattern.

Can I use cotton or acrylic yarn instead of thread? That perfect pattern is made with thread and I don’t have any. Yes, you can substitute cotton or acrylic yarn, but the size won’t be the same. Thread is thinner than yarn, much thinner. The item will be significantly larger in yarn than in thread, but not necessarily awful looking. Some items look nice large or small. If it is clothing you definitely want to use the suggested size thread or yarn or it will not fit correctly.

I don’t have enough yarn from the same dye lot to complete my project. What do I do? You can try buying a skein that looks similar, but if the yarns are placed side by side in a project, you may be able to tell where the new yarn was joined. Another option is to go with a contrasting or complementary color to complete your project, if that is possible.

Sometimes store personnel will call around and try to find more of your yarn in the same dye lot, if they are a chain and have more than one store in the area, and the salesperson is a sweetheart. You could always ask. Even the “no dye lot” skeins do have a slight color variation in skeins purchased at different times. This won’t matter if you’re not using it on the same project, but if you put two even slightly off color skeins next to one another on the same project, you will be able to see the difference. This is true of variegated yarns as well as solid color.

When working on a large project, it is sometimes difficult to find enough yarn in one store to complete your project. In this case, you can order a sufficient quantity of yarn from a catalog or online store. This way you can order as many skeins of one color as you need, and they should all be from the same dye lot. Of course, you take a chance if you don’t know specifically the name/number color of your yarn. I have purchased some in the past, judging by the picture on the web site and was disappointed in the color. However, if the color is not critical or you know the actual name or number you want, this is a way to go.

Also, when using variegated yarn, when you start a new skein, check to be sure your colors are appearing in the same order as previously. Sometimes they wind the yarn backwards, though I’m not sure how that happens. I just learned a neat trick to keep the variegated yarn from making a "pattern" in your work (color flashing and color pooling). You can use two skeins, changing skeins from one row to the next, but don’t cut the yarn. Just carry it up the side as I show in my tutorial on joining new colors.

Extra hint: Buy MORE than you think you need. You can always use extra, but can’t always get the same yarn if you run out. And you can probably return the unused portion if you keep your receipt and do it within a reasonable time frame.

How can I clean a skein of yarn before using it? Jean Felton told me to place a skein of yarn in an old stocking, tie the ends securely, and throw it in the washer. Now you can see if that “stain” comes out before you spend a lot of time making something from it. Another lady (sorry I can’t remember who it was) said that if your completed project has a smoky smell, put it outside in the rain. I did have some preemie afghans with a strong smoke odor. I washed them in Tide and used a Cling Free dryer sheet and the smell seemed to come out though I’m told it is only temporary fix and it comes back. I can’t give a definitive answer to that one. You could also try hanging them outdoors after washing (or even before) if you have a clothes line.

Deborah in Arizona sent me still another washing hint: wash using cold water and one half cup of white vinegar in the wash cycle to set all dyes and remove all preservatives used in the yarns.

Are these two yarns the same weight? Weight is generally listed on the yarn label. If you don’t have the label you can try doing a yarn wrap of each yarn. For example, wrap each yarn around a ruler one inch. If they take the same number of wraps per inch, they are probably good to combine in one project. Make sure you are using the same tension when wrapping to get an accurate idea.

Happy crocheting!
Sandie

FAQ Part 2

I decided to break this up since it was so long.

FAQ - Part 2

GENERAL CROCHET FAQ

What do the skill level terms found at the beginning of a pattern mean? The designer of the pattern determines what skill level he or she chooses to put on it, if any.They mean different things to different people. You might also remember that being ABLE to do something and wanting to do it or wanting to take the time to mess with it are not the same thing. You might have the skill to do it, but it may not be something you are interested in doing.

I love this knit pattern! Can I crochet it? In my opinion, you cannot get an exact duplicate of a knitted item in crochet. I can tell you that if you are trying to duplicate colors of a knitted item (like a scarf, for example), you need to know if the designer has written the pattern in rows or ridges. It takes two rows to make a ridge. Here’s some info that might be useful. I use it when working my Doctor Who scarves.

2 rows knit = one row single crochet
3 rows of knit = 1 row half double crochet
4 rows of knit = 1 row of double crochet
6 rows of knit = 1 row of triple (or treble) crochet

My pattern calls for a hook I don’t have. Can I substitute another size? Of course you can. However, your project may not turn out the size it says in the pattern and you may not have the right amount of yarn. Check your pattern BEFORE buying your yarn. Keep in mind that some things are made to fit. In that case, you should check gauge before choosing a hook and purchase the yarn weight suggested if you want that fit.

How do you measure crocheted squares? Across, not diagonally.

I need to join my squares. Should I use sewing thread? No. Do not use sewing thread. Use the same material with which you made your project.

How long will it take me to finish this pattern? Well, that depends. How fast are you? You don't know? Then you need to find out.

Every pattern will be different because patterns are of different complexity. If you need to know whether you have enough time to finish an afghan before Christmas or a special birthday or whatever, time yourself while crocheting one row of the project. You might want to time yourself say three separate times and take the average. Then figure out how many rows you need. Multiply the time it took you to make one row by the number of rows and voila, that's how long it will take you to make the blankie in a perfect world.

Keep in mind that this is if you continue to crochet without stopping. Of course, you're going to stop - you have to cook, eat, use the bathroom, shower, bring the kids here and there, check your e-mail. You also will not crochet without stopping, especially if you're having a conversation or watching a movie or TV program that steals your attention. So figure at least three times whatever you come up with (in daylight hours unless you crochet in your sleep). Or you might double the time you get for each row. Say it takes you 15 minutes to do a row when you're concentrating fully on that. Estimate then that it will take you 30 minutes per row when you're not doing something else while crocheting.

Don't forget to add time for edging and sewing in ends, which can take quite a while. Your edging will take longer than your rows because the length will be longer.

Example 1: I timed myself while crocheting a row in a doll blankie I was making. It took me 6 minutes to do one row. I knew I needed 45 rows, so that is 270 minutes, or 4.5 hours. If I would have done nothing but crochet on that blankie, I would have finished it in approximately 4.5 hours, probably a little longer since you won't go at the same speed the entire time you're crocheting. When you're timing yourself you tend to go faster to meet the challenge. How long did it actually take me? Two days. Besides the 45 rows, I also did a two round border and then had to sew in the ends.

Example 2: I was working a dc ripple using blo (back loop only). I mention the blo because it takes longer to do. You wouldn't think so, but it does because you have to pull that back thread where it is more automatic to go through both loops. You have to watch what you're doing. I timed myself crocheting one row. It took about 16 minutes. Later, I timed myself while watching television. It took about a half hour. There were times I found it took even longer if it was an exciting show or the dog wanted to go out often, or the kids needed something. I estimated I would need about 130 rows. At the shortest time that would be about 35 hours for the afghan, not counting the edging and sewing in the ends. At a half hour per row, that would be 65 hours, also not counting edging and ends. That's quite a difference - well, almost twice as long *grin*. Unless you have a family who really appreciates crochet, you won't get more than a couple hours where you can concentrate on crocheting. I cheated. I found movie marathons and got them interested in them because this was something I wanted to finish before Christmas and I definitely needed more than 2 hours per day of crocheting time. I also went no-mail on my e-mail lists, and didn't plan any elaborate meals during that time. :-)

So, how long would it take to complete that afghan? It is a twin size afghan if you're wondering. Figuring 2 hours per day at the longer time because that is more realistic, it would be 33 days.

Why do all this figuring anyway? Well, in this case, I didn't HAVE 33 days to complete this project, so I knew I needed to work more than 2 hours per day, possibly spending a few late nights.

Don't forget to add mailing time if you have to send off that project!

I can’t read this pattern! It looks like Greek to me. What do I do?
Copy the pattern text into a word processing program then change all the abbreviations to their actual meanings. For example, change sc to single crochet. Be careful if you use find and replace as you could change something you were not expecting. Another option is to put each instruction on a separate line. Print out an abbreviation list for reference.

I’ve made an afghan from a pattern I found in a book. Can I sell it?
That depends on the designer/publisher’s policies. Always check first if it’s not specifically stated in the book or on the web site.

I might also note that for works copyrighted before 1923, they are now in the public domain and anything published after 1978 is considered copyrighted whether the person has filed or not. Other years require more information to know whether they are still copyrighted or not. When in doubt, check it out.

If the designer or publisher does not say specifically that you can, then you must ask permission, even if you purchased the pattern.

My pattern uses rounds, not rows--how do I do it? Working in rounds means that you will be going in a circle rather than working right to left or left to right in rows. There are many tutorials dealing with the technique. Check my YouTube channel.

Should I weave in as I go, or wait until I’m finished with the project? It really doesn’t matter as far as how your finished project will look, but if you are one who can’t help but rip back when you find an error, no matter how far back it is, then you might like to save the weaving until the end when you’re satisfied all is well with your work and there are no mistakes. That is because it is sometimes hard to rip the section where you wove the ends in, especially if you did a really good job. You might end up having to cut the yarn in places and not have enough left to weave in again.

How can I keep my work from unraveling before it’s completed? I have used various methods to keep my stitches from coming apart when someone accidentally gets tangled up in my work, or I put it down and when I pick it up again, I have to search for the end of it etc. Stitch holders work, as do paper clips, and safety pins, but of late I have been using "Lil’s Knot". By using this method, I don’t have to make sure I have a handy paper clip or safety pin or stitch holder. All I need is my fingers and the yarn, which I have. LOL

How big should I make this ...? In regards to afghans, measure or look up how big the area that you want to cover is. If it’s a scarf, I have read that it’s customary to make a scarf at least as long as the person is tall.

What can I do if I discover too late that I didn’t make enough foundation chains? If your pattern says chain 150, just chain 155 or 160. When you complete the required stitches of your pattern, you can undo the extra stitches. It is easier to undo a few stitches, than to have to redo 150 chains! I do recommend you go back and check your pattern to be sure you didn’t make a mistake before you undo those chains--especially if the first row is straight sc or dc. :-)

You can also add a few stitches by making more foundation chains on the end of the ones you’ve already made. Just insert your hook in the slip knot and use the dangling strand to make the chains. Now in order for this to work, you need to leave a looonnggg yarn end. So if you plan to be short *smile*, make sure your yarn end is long. I suggest leaving a long end regardless.

Jean Leinhauser has a wonderful lesson (with pictures) on this method in the book, The Crochet Yearbook (ASN). There are several great tips and tutorials in this book. I highly recommend it.

If you are interested in another method where you do not have to make a long chain, but can make your first row at the same time as your foundation chain, then there is another way to handle this problem. What you do, briefly, is to chain 2 for a foundation chain, single crochet into the second chain from hook, then for your next stitch, you insert your hook into the base of your sc, yo and pull up one loop, yo and draw through one loop on hook (this becomes the base or chain for your next stitch), yo and draw through both loops on hook.

You can find many videos on variations of starting your row with both the foundation chain and the first row together. It might be called the foundation single crochet, or foundationless single crochet, or no foundation chain, or some other variation.

Should I wash my finished project? I have discovered that washing projects sometimes causes strange things to happen so better to happen to me than the person I’m sending it to, right? Threads you thought secure may pop out at you. Also, some yarns become much softer after washing. Red Heart yarn is this way. Stiff to work with, but soft after washing. I’d rather send off a soft piece than a rough one.

If you’re short on time, though, and your ends don’t normally pop out, you can certainly send it without washing as well. Most Moms wash newborn items before using anyway. It would be thoughtful to include the yarn label washing instructions, or your own little note telling the recipient how to wash the piece. I find people are sometimes hesitant to wash a handmade item as they are afraid to damage it.

How should I wash crocheted pieces? I just throw mine in the washing machine, on gentle cycle with my regular detergent. Cold water, gentle cycle and low heat are good for most acrylic items. Then in the dryer with a softener sheet. If it’s for a baby, I usually use Ivory Snow or Dreft or anything made for babies that won’t take the fire-proofing stuff out. For preemie items, the softener smell may be too strong so you may prefer to use softener in the washing machine rather than the dryer for those items or use one of the fabric softener sheets with no scent added.

Keep in mind that crocheted items may stretch if hung, so they should be folded and stored flat. You can wrap in tissue if you’re storing it for the summer or a long period of time. In her book, Crochet 200 Q&A, Rita Taylor suggests using blue tissue paper to keep white cotton items looking white. I was glad to read this hint because, to my disappointment, I have had items develop yellow spots.

Bonnie in Washington suggested hand-washing items which use mixed yarn types with a mild shampoo.

Some yarns have a longer drying time than others. Make sure your piece is completely dry before packing it into a plastic bag or your item will arrive damp and the bag will be full of droplets.

Why do I always hear not to make knots? What’s wrong with knots? 

Why do we not like knots?

First you should understand what I don't mean by knotting. I don't mean the finish-off or loosely tying two pieces together when you've joined a new skein of yarn, to hold them together temporarily while you continue working, then weaving in each of the long tails in later. If you are making a project for donation to a charity and are not sure what your particular group means when they say knotting, ASK, because some groups have strict rules about knotting and you want to be clear on this as you want your hard work to be used.

What I do mean by knotting is tying your two strands together tightly and/or then tying them again. Or tying your single strand into a knot. In either case, if you cut the strand right after the knot, this is bad, bad, bad. Whether you choose to tie, leave a long strand and weave it in, or you choose not to tie and weave your long tails in, I won't cause a fuss. There is a lot of controversy about which is best so you have to do what you feel is right. But please do not knot and then cut right there because that just won't work. Your lovely work will come undone.

I believe that right and wrong is a blurred line in most things crochet - if it works for you, it is okay. But some things are wrong at the core because they will not give you a quality finished product that will bring pleasure to you or the recipient for many years.

Knotting and cutting at the knot is one of these. Knotting and leaving a 1" piece of yarn is another. Always, always leave a long tail as noted above.  

But WHY? Why is this bad, you want to know? Here's why.

1) They can pull apart, before, after, or during a washing -- no matter how tightly you think you've tied them. I've had squares come apart while assembling an afghan of donated squares.

2) If you did tie them tightly, this can weaken the strand and it may break. I have also seen this when, in order to save the square, I've tried to sew in strands that have been knotted. If you pull too tightly on them the yarn breaks. You can see this yourself if you pull tightly on yarn. Some kinds are more susceptible to breaking than others, of course.

3) It creates a bump that you can feel. This is actually painful to sensitive skin (cancer patients and preemies for example) and even if you do not have sensitive skin it is not good to feel that hard bump in an otherwise soft, smooth piece.

4) Knots are hard to crochet over, particular in adding to a piece (for example, a charity assembler adding an edging to a square) or joining squares or strips or clothing pieces.

5) After washing, the tip of the sewn in tail sometimes pokes out and can be clipped if you have sewn in a long strand. In the case of two ends that have been knotted, occasionally the section where the knot is will come out. This is next to impossible to sew back in, because there is no "open" segment to thread.

The preferred, professional method of finishing is to weave in long tails.

Why do I have to leave long ends? There are several reasons that I, and other experienced crocheters, suggest leaving long ends. Dee Stanziano, of Crochet with Dee, put these into list form for us. I have received permission to share them with you in my own words.

1. The more you weave in, the less chance your afghan/sweater or whatever will later come apart. (added note: some folks like to weave a few inches and one direction and then head back in the other direction for extra stability.)

2. If you left a long tail at the beginning of your foundation chain, and you find you made too few, you can make more chains with the beginning long strand. As Dee says, "it's a plug on amazing "fudge-ability" crochet has to offer over knitting".

3. In later years if a hole develops or repair is needed, the crocheter can use that long tail to make the repair, matching the fiber and color exactly.

Amy Ries also gives some insight into why the long ends (reprinted with permission) from the viewpoint of an assembler joining squares.

Assembling is like building a house of cards. You make a square with a certain yarn, a certain tension, a certain pattern. Several other people also make squares with a different yarn, a different tension, a different pattern. Then I [the assembler] come along and add yet another card to the tower with my yarn and a joining method. It creates stress on your square that wouldn't normally happen if you just made a stack of squares yourself and joined them all together. I've seen the best intentioned squares unravel, and it's horrible to have it happen once the ghan is complete. That's why I say that making a complete ghan is your chance at individuality. Making squares is all of us coming together making something as similar as possible. That's why there are rules about squares.  Not to cramp your style, just to make sure we create something that will last. If your square comes to me with a problem, it takes me extra time to fix it. That adds up to less ghans that I'll have time to assemble.

Happy crocheting!
Sandie

Fibonacci and Lucas and crochet

Over the years I've made soooo many scarves and in a few of them I've used the Fibonacci sequence. You may have heard the term Fibonacci numbers. Well, about a dozen years ago I researched this and wrote an article on it. I thought it might be interesting to revisit it so here it is again. 

Fibonacci and Crochet
©2004, 2016 Sandra Petit, http://www.crochetcabana.com

What exactly is Fibonacci?

Well, Fibonacci is not a WHAT, but a person. His name was actually Leonardo of Pisa, or Leonardo Pisano, also called Leonard Bigollo. Bigollo means traveler. According to what I’ve read, he called himself Fibonacci, short for Filius Bonacci. I think he did this to make it hard for us to look him up. LOL He was born in Italy in 1170, and died in 1250. That makes him a ripe old 80 at his death, depending on the actual date of birth.

So why do we care anyway?

Well, Fibonacci was a famous mathematician and he wrote some well known books such as Liber abaci. Until this time folks in Italy used Roman numerals. Ever try to add and subtract Roman numerals? Major pain. In this book, which was basically a primer in our current ten based (decimal) number system, he posed problems which were to be worked out by the reader. One of these problems gave birth to the now famous Fibonacci numbers.

In the Fibonacci sequence you add two numbers to get the third in the sequence, as I’ve done below. Note that Fibonacci excluded 0 in Liber abaci. I don’t know when it was added, but somewhere, somehow it was. This did not change the sequence since 0 + anything is that number.

0 + 1 = 1
Sequence: 0, 1, 1

1 + 1 = 2
Sequence: 0, 1, 1, 2

1 + 2 = 3
Sequence: 0, 1, 1, 2, 3

2 + 3 = 5
Sequence: 0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5

3 + 5 = 8
Sequence: 0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8...

And so on. Those are the Fibonacci numbers. Of course, this can go on indefinitely, but for the purposes of crochet, there is a limit to how far we want to go. Even for an afghan we would hardly go over a certain number of rows. Can you imagine working 17711 rows or rounds?

Here are the first two dozen numbers so you can see what I mean. The sequence quickly escalates.

0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34, 55, 89, 144, 233, 377, 610, 987, 1597, 2584, 4181, 6765, 10946, 17711, 28657

The Fibonacci sequence of numbers is quite useful for planning a pleasing-to-the-eye sequence of colors. It can help you in designing your crocheted items. Yep. It’s true.So you’re tapping your foot and wondering again, WHY do I care?

For example, squares. Given you have a round 1" x 1" square, and your gauge doesn’t change, you place two of these side by side. That’s the first two numbers (because you obviously can’t have a square 0" wide). The next number is two. You can place a 2" square on top of the two 1" squares. Now you have a square with sides 2" + 1". That would be 3, right? Place that 3" square on one of the sides. Now you have a new side with a 3" and a 2" square. The next number in the sequence is...5. So each new square has a side which is as long as the sum of the last two squares added. Say that real fast three times. Not easy, is it? Makes you sound like the Scarecrow in the Wizard of Oz. Remember that your tension has to be even so your gauge is correct, or it won’t work.

Another way to use the sequence is in determining the length of your afghan. If it is 34" wide, you can make it 55" (the next number in the sequence) long. Or is it’s 55" wide, you can make it 89" long. 21" x 34". You see what I’m saying. Does that mean you HAVE to make it 55" long if it is 34" wide. No. It is just one way of determining a length that might give a nice look. It is by no means the ONLY way.

There is another set of numbers we can also use. These were defined by the French mathematician, Edouard Lucas (1842-1891). As I understand it, he gave the name Fibonacci Numbers to the above sequence. Then he developed his own sequence. He began with 2, 1 rather than 0, 1. Then continued in the same manner as Fibonacci, adding the two digits to get the next. You get a different list of numbers, of course.

2, 1, 3, 4, 7, 11, 18, 29, 47, 76, 123

Just because I think it’s cool, note this. From the Fibonacci list, take one number, skip a number and add the next number. Your answer will be the the number between those two numbers on the Lucas row. For example, on the Fibonacci row start at the second 1, skip 2, add 3. 1 + 3 = 4, which is the number in the middle of 1 and 3 on the Lucas row.

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Fibonacci 0 1 1 2 3 5 8 13 21 34 55 Lucas 2 1 3 4 7 11 18 29 47 76 123

Let’s see how else we might use this number sequence in our crochet projects. By the way, an afghan 47 x 76 would, to me, be perfect for a twin size bed. (The two numbers in the Lucas sequence)

One way we make our projects unique is in the colors we choose. Stripes is an oft used method of alternating colors. Why not try using the Fibonacci or Lucas numbers to vary the colors? There are so many different ways to do this.

Two rows of blue, one of white, three of red, four of white, seven of purple, then you might start over or go backwards. That’s the Lucas sequence. Of course you can choose different colors as well. How about the colors of the rainbow?

Rainbow Over You, God’s Blessings In View  - red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet.

In case you’re wondering, indigo is the shade of color between blue and violet. According to dictionary.com (definition #3) it is: "The hue of that portion of the visible spectrum lying between blue and violet, evoked in the human observer by radiant energy with wavelengths of approximately 420 to 450 nanometers; a dark blue to grayish purple blue."

How else might you use the Fibonacci or Lucas numbers in your crochet? You could vary the stitches on each row. You might do 1 row of sc, 1 row of dc, 3 rows of sc, 5 rows of dc.

Or you could use different stitches. 1 sc, 1 puff, 2 sc, 3 puffs, 5 sc, 8 puffs ...

You can substitute any other stitch for the sc and puff. Try it with the cross-stitch or the front post stitches or any other. Of course if you are using a pattern with alternating stitch types on one row you have to make sure your foundation chain is correct.

If you’re varying the length of your stitches, as in making sc in one row and dc in the next, you will be able to see the change easier if you use different colors. However, you will still see a difference even if you use the same color. You might consider using the same color but an entirely different sort of stitch.

You don’t have to go the entire sequence either. You could choose two numbers from the sequence. Say 3 and 5 and alternate those. 3 cross-stitches, 5 dc, 3 cross-stitches, 5 dc and so on...

There are just any number of ways to use this sequence with a beautiful result.

There is one other sequence of numbers I read about but it is not very useful in crochet. It is called the Golden String, or the Infinite Fibonacci Word or the Fibonacci Rabbit Sequence.

The sequence is:   1 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 ...

How do you get the numbers? Good question. I’m not sure I understand that myself, but here’s how I think it is done.

You start with 1 and 0. That’s easy enough to remember since we work with a decimal system.

Now rather than adding the numbers as you do in Fibonacci, you follow the rule.If the last digit is a 0, make the next digit a 1. If it’s not, then make the next digits 10

Let’s see if that works.

First numbers are 10. The last number in that sequence is a 0, so you add 1.
Sequence 101.

Now the last number is a 1, so you add 10.
Sequence: 10110

Now the last number is a 0, so you add 1
Sequence: 101101

Yep, that seems to work.

Since you can’t do ZERO rows of crochet, it’s not very helpful but I would feel remiss if I didn’t mention it since it is associated with the Fibonacci and Lucas numbers.

So there ya go. Fibonacci, Lucas, and Crochet.

Happy crocheting!
Sandie

FAQ - Part 1

Doing a little housecleaning and was going through my FAQ. I can't actually make changes to the web site right now because I got a new computer and my old program doesn't work on it. The company has told me they no longer support that edition so still figuring that out. (I still have it on my old computer hard drive.)

Anyway, I thought I'd just post the FAQ and maybe you'll find something new and interesting. Some of it is specific to me and some is just general information, but all are my own opinions.

CROCHET CABANA FAQ - Part 1
©2016 Sandra Petit

Do you do link exchanges? Yes and no. I ignore all those e-mails I receive that say "I put a link to your site on my site and I will be waiting for you to link to me." or "I linked to you. You have xx amount of time before your link is removed." Go for it. Link to my site if you find it useful. If I find your site useful, I’ll link to you too.

Why didn’t you answer my e-mail? You say you answer all e-mails. Well, I wrote you once and you didn’t answer! I do answer every e-mail I receive, even if it is to say I can’t help you. Sometimes e-mail goes into my spam box and I don’t see it. I get hundreds of spam items in each of my half dozen accounts so I rarely go through it unless I’m expecting something. Other times I do answer an e-mail and the e-mail I send out is returned to me as undeliverable. I usually will try once more, but then I give up. I don’t have time to keep trying to answer the same message over and over again. Also, sometimes a person will send me a message through a form, but not include their e-mail. I certainly understand the precaution of not handing out your e-mail address to just anyone, but I can’t provide an answer if I don’t have your e-mail.

If you don’t get an answer to your question within a few days, try again. I answer my mail daily unless bad weather or bad health prohibits me using the computer. Oh, and if you reply to my reply, please include the text of my answer as I get a lot of mail, and I don’t always remember your exact situation.

Can I send you something I’ve made so you can tell me what I did wrong? No. Your best option for help with a pattern is the designer or publisher of that particular pattern.

I can’t find this pattern. Can you help me? I’m sorry, but no. Unless it is a pattern I am interested in myself, I will just tell you to do a web search, which is what I would have to do myself. My search engine of preference is Google. I might also suggest you put a message on a message board or join a crochet list. When more eyes are looking, the chance of finding what you’re looking for is better.

I am trying to work a pattern and am having trouble. Can you help me to figure it out? Your best option for help with a pattern is the designer or publisher of that particular pattern. If that is not possible, I am very happy to help when the problem is one I can solve without actually working the pattern. I cannot make the items you are making in order to help you and sometimes it’s hard to tell the problem without doing so. I cannot take you row by row through your project though I’d love to do that if I had the time. If I can help, I will. If I can’t, then I’ll make a suggestion as to where you can find the answer – which is almost always the designer or publisher.

Can I send you a pattern, so you can re-write it for me in plain English? No.

Do you take donated yarn? Thank you for the thought, but no. I no longer take donated yarn.

Happy crocheting!
Sandie

videos

I was looking over my videos at YouTube today and made a reference list of them. I thought I'd share the list with you all so here it is. The numbers are how many videos in that topic. I took out the words "how to" so the more descriptive word would be listed.

adjustable ring - magic ring
alternative to the slip knot
back cross stitch
back popcorn stitch
back post double crochet (bpdc)
berry stitch
blueberries square
bobble stitch
bullion block stitch
cluster
Continuous join as you go (4)
crochet on the double (5)
cross stitch square
change yarn color in every stitch
crochet basics ((3)
cross stitch on afghan stitch
Diagonal Box stitch
Difference between puff, bobble and cluster
double crochet
double crochet decrease
double crochet increase
double crochet increase and decrease
double yo yo
filet cancer ribbon (6)
filet crochet
Filet crochet - fleur de lis
Filet crochet vertical 2012
finding the next chain
foundation single crochet
front cross stitch
front popcorn stitch
front post double crochet (fpdc)
front post triple crochet cross stitch (faux cable)
golden loop – gauge
Granny's daughter
half double crochet
herringbone half double crochet
hexagon
hooks, yarn and other supplies for crocheting
into the turning chain
invisible finish off
Jacob's Ladder (2) (afghan)
Jacob's Ladder scarf (2)
Jeff's Sampler (5)
join new color / changing color
joining squares with a reverse sc
joining squares with a sc
joining squares with a slip stitch
joining squares with a whipstitch
joining squares with sc, ch 3
Lil's Knot
linked triple crochet
long double crochet
long single crochet (spike stitch)
Making a ring using chain stitches
measure a square or rectangle
More crochet basics (4)
parts of a chain in the foundation chain
pentagon
picot stitch
plastic canvas bookmarkers
puff stitch
pull yarn through many loops on hook
rectangle granny (5)
reverse single crochet
Reversible granny square
Ripple (2)
ruffled scarf (2)
saltines - 2 round granny squares
sc2tog, dc2tog – decrease
simple fringe
Simple Hat (3)
single crochet
single crochet left handed
slip knot
slip stitch
spider stitch
spider stitch scarf
spiral
straight box stitch
surface crochet
swatch samples with different hooks
triangle (2)
triple yo yos
triple crochet (treble crochet)
triple crochet decrease
triple crochet increase
triple ripple
tunisian crochet (2)
turn your work
V stitch
work between stitches
work into a space
working along opposite end of the foundation chain
working in the round
working into a ring and how to make a ring
working into the same stitch, an increase
X stitch
Y stitch
yo yo

Happy crocheting!
Sandie