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I wasn't going to do another cocoon post as I'm sure you're tired of them, but I decided to give all the details in one spot.
These were made using the same preemie pattern. It has a flap so it can be opened and the nurses can get to the baby while still keeping him or her mostly covered.
I have not had occasion to try these on an actual baby but the feedback has been positive. If you're a nurse or someone who handles preemies, feel free to holler out with opinions.
For these, I used Bernat Baby Sport (#3) with a G hook. The skeins are 8.5 oz (240g), 892 yards (816m). 100% acrylic. I was able to get 6 cocoons out of each skein with a smallish ball leftover. The colorways are Tiny Tulips (pink) and Funny Prints (blue).
The methodology of creating the flap is fairly simple. You go into the front loop only on a few stitches, then when you get back to that spot you stitch into the back loop only for those few stitches. From there on, you turn your work each round.
Here is the pattern:
Preemie Cocoon with flap
©July 2017 Sandra Petit, http://www.crochetcabana.com
Materials: G hook, DK or sport weight yarn (Bernat Baby Sport is used in the sample)
Note: If you prefer, you can start each round with a ch-3. It won’t change the pattern.
Size: Working to 25 rounds, with a G hook and sport yarn, gave me a cocoon about 10 1/2" tall. If you need a taller cocoon, work more rounds. The bottom is 4-5" diameter.
Special stitch:
standing dc (join with a dc) for this pattern only: place slip stitch on hook, hold yarn tail firmly in right hand, with working yarn, yarn over twice, insert hook in specified stitch and complete a dc as normal. (Some choose not to put the slip stitch on hook, but that’s how I do it)
Instructions:
Make a magic circle (or ch 4 and join with a sl st to make a ring)
Round 1: ch 1 (ch-1 does not count as a stitch here and throughout), work 12 dc in the center ring, join with a slip stitch to first dc (not the chain). You can pull your ring a bit tighter now if you're using the adjustable ring. That will almost close your hole. (12 dc)
Round 2: ch 1, work 2 dc in same stitch, then work 2 dc in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to first dc (24 dc)
Round 3: ch 1, dc in same stitch, 2 dc in next st, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first dc (36 dc)
Round 4: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in each of next 4 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch *dc in each of next 5 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch, repeat from * around, join with a slip stitch to first dc (6 increases - 42 dc)
Round 5: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in each of next 5 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch *dc in each of next 6 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch, repeat from * around, join with a slip stitch to first dc. (48 dc)
Round 6 - 10: ch 1, dc in same stitch and in each stitch around. On last dc, pull yarn through and use the invisible finish off to close round. Place a stitch marker around post of this stitch. This is front side. (Alternately you can join with a slip stitch to first dc and finish off.) (48 dc)
Note: If you want a shorter flap, just work to 15 rounds and then continue with Round 11. This pattern stops at Round 25, but if you want a longer cocoon just make more rounds.
Count 21 stitches from where you ended Round 10 (or your Round 15 if you’re making a short flap)
Do not count the stitch where you joined the round.
Place a stitch marker in stitch 21 to mark the spot.
Round 11: In stitch 22 make a standing dc in front loop only. Dc in each of the next 4 stitches in front loop only, dc in each remaining stitch around going through both loops.
When you get to the beginning where you worked the front loop stitches, do not join.
Working behind the next stitches, in the free loops (BACK loops only), make one dc in each of the next 5 stitches. This will put those stitches behind the stitches made in the front loop. This will be one side of your flap. From here on out, you will be turning each round.
Round 12: ch 3, turn, DC in each stitch around. Make sure you don't catch the stitches below as this will close it up. Also don’t miss the standing stitch. (53 dc)
Round 13 - 25: ch 3, turn, dc in each dc around. Finish off. (53 dc)
Edging: With right side facing, starting at lower edge of the left flap, join yarn with a sc. SC in each row along the side. Then sc around the top, then down the inner right flap. Finish off.
Sew all tails in.
Pattern can also be found in my Ravelry shop for free if you want to put it in your library.
Happy crocheting!
Sandie
I've been cranking out cocoons lately. My goal is to make all the cocoons I can make with these two skeins or until I get tired of making cocoons LOL. So far, I've made the ones pictured here plus one more pink which was already sent out. The pink is Bernat Baby Sport Tiny Tulips and the blue is Bernat Baby Sport Funny Prints.
These are going to two places - Heartstrings of Houma and God's Tiny Angels.
Although I am using my own pattern, I wanted to mention that Heartstrings has a pattern for a preemie cocoon/sacque which uses a formula I thought was interesting. At first I was like ugh math so I went my own way, creating my own pattern. But then I went back to it and once I actually did the math, it wasn't difficult at all. Kaci has kindly allowed me to share the details here.
Basically you use the length of the baby. If you don't have a specific baby in mind, no worries. Babies come in all sizes. Your cocoon will fit someone. The figures come from that starting point. (See chart below)
The formula is Length divided by 3.14 to get the diameter of your cocoon bottom. You round up to a whole number so using the "if it's less than half go down, if it's more than half go up" you will essentially be using 3 diameters - 4, 5 and 6".
Here is the chart to refer to. Click to make it larger so you can actually read it.
I'll save you the trouble of doing the figuring, however.
For babies 11.8" to 13.8" diameter is 4". That is 23 to 27 weeks gestation.
For babies 14.4 to 16.7" diameter is 5", That is 28 to 32 weeks gestation.
For 17.2" it was 5.5"so I was flummoxed whether to go up or down. LOL
For 17.7 to 20.2" diameter is 6". That is 34 to 41 weeks gestation.
To determine length of cocoon (which determines how many rounds to do) you just subtract 2 from the listed length. In other words If the length is 15", you might make your cocoon 13"'.
Here it is in chart form:
These are just guidelines, of course. For the length, I would probably just get an approximate measure. I'm not going to try and get to 9.8 but if it's around 9 1/2" to 10" I'd call it good. My thought is that if it is too long, you can fold it over. If it's too short, the baby won't be fully covered.
Note that the cocoon at Heartstrings uses velcro. I don't put velcro on mine. My past experience with velcro and yarn has been less than successful, especially in the wash. That said, if you are interested in adding it, you might like to make a sample and give it a try.
Happy crocheting!
Sandie
I'm back to making cocoons for the preemies. This time I used Bernat Baby Sport in Tiny Tulips colorway. I've actually made two but I forgot to take a picture of the other one. I'll be making more as this is an 8.5 oz skein. I used a G hook.
The finished length is about 10 1/2". If flattened and measure across, it is about 6" around where Round 10 is. With the flap open it appears wider but really is not when the flaps are closed properly.
Happy crocheting!
Sandie
And another scarf. :-)
I used the Christmas at Sea pattern Scrappy Scarf and the Swish superwash wool that was leftover from the other scarves.
Finished scarf is about 7" x 59". I had enough to work a single crochet edging all around.
I used an H hook. Colors are Marine Heather, Lemongrass Heather, Hollyberry, Squirrel Heather, and Bark.
Happy crocheting!
Sandie
This is a scarf I started a while back, had put aside while I finished something or other, and then came back to. It's made from a yarn cake I got at Hobby Lobby. It's called Yarn Bee Sugarwheel and the color is Go Go Cocoa. It's a 7 oz skein of 355 yards. I used the entire thing. It's 100% acrylic worsted weight yarn, though it's on the thicker side of worsted. The price on the label is $6.99 which is a bit higher than I usually pay but I couldn't resist trying this interesting yarn. I'm sure I used a 40% off coupon though. I almost always do. :-)
I used an I hook. I think I chained 26. The finished size is about 7 3/4" x 60". I managed the color changes so that I didn't have a change in the middle of a row, just because that's how I am. :-)
What I liked about it - each color section was about a foot long, more or less, so I could estimate clearly how long it was as I worked.
All in all I'd give this yarn a thumbs up. I had no problems with it, no sections I had to cut out. I lost a tiny bit at the color changes but that was my choice.
Happy crocheting!
Sandie
