website move

About a year ago, I got a new computer.The program I purchased to update the Crochet Cabana web site in 2012 could not be moved to the new computer.  When I contacted the publisher of the program, they said it was no longer supported and I'd have to repurchase the program. I didn't care for the program that much so I didn't want to do that. Thus the website has been sitting without additions or changes while I thought about what to do. The blog and Facebook / Twitter are what I have used to relay information. 

The dilemma I faced is whether to keep the site going or not. Is the website really that useful? Are people visiting enough to go to the trouble of moving the site? The world of crochet is expanding and changing. Am I able to offer enough new and pertinent content to make it worth a visit or can I do what I need to do with just the blog and YouTube accounts?

With regards to expenses, besides creating the site, it has to be hosted somewhere. The problem I had with free hosts in the past was that they couldn't handle the number of pages I had on site and the traffic using the site. I had to keep moving it. Because of this we purchased hosting which we've been using with no problem since 2004. However, they are raising costs by about 30%. The only other thing I use the host for is to get those neat statistics I post at the beginning of the year - well, neat to me.

I also own the domain name, which has to be renewed annually.

To see how useful the site is, I put up a poll on the blog and mentioned it twice on the Facebook page which also posts to Twitter. I have an average of 8500 followers on the FB page. 8 of them responded to the poll. That seems to indicate that the site is not as useful as it perhaps once was. One doesn't expect every person to respond. Some may have missed the notification. Others wouldn't care or wouldn't have time. All understandable. 

Before I put up the poll I had checked out a few places to which to move the site. To my knowledge, there is no "automatic" way to move the website anywhere.

I already had a free account with Wordpress. The free account does not include videos so I would have to use links rather than embedding videos. There is also a limit to how many pages one can add though I couldn't find out how many that is. One place said 80, one said 88, one said 100. 

The name "Crochet Cabana" is being used by another Wordpress client. That site was last updated in November 2015. Nonetheless, I wouldn't be able to use that name while working on the site. I own the domain name, however, and can just redirect it.

All that to say in year 20 Crochet Cabana will be having another overhaul. Even though it may not be as useful as it once was, I find I turn to the site myself to remember things. Since not a lot of people appear to be using the site,  I'm not willing to pay for space. However, since I use it myself I'm willing to keep it going at least for a while.

I have moved most of the information to Wordpress. It's fairly easy though there's a learning curve. There are 82 pages currently. I haven't gotten any notices about the number of pages so I am assuming it is okay.

The site is actually active though there are still some things I'm working on. The blog will be part of the site, not separate, so if you have this blog bookmarked you will need to bookmark the other one. Wordpress does have a feature to automatically pull blog posts so all of the posts are there, including the recent ones which I've moved over manually.

If you are curious to see the new site now, you can find it here. I have to figure out how to move the domain name over which I hope to do soon. If you do visit and you find something not working, please do holler out to me. I'm still learning Wordpress. I was so excited to figure out the menu thing. LOL

Happy crocheting!
Sandie

hats and DW scarf

I finally finished sewing in those tails. What a job! But it's done and I'm very pleased with the finished scarf. Again, I haven't measured it but I'm guessing between 18 and 19' without fringe. I don't normally add fringe though I guess I should if I want to be authentic. :-)

Here are a couple pics. See previous post for details on this Season 16-17 scarf. Now I need to make a Season 15 and I will have one from each season. That still won't be ALL the scarves as there is a duplicate that was used sometimes and Romana wore a scarf similar to the Doctor's in one episode.

The pattern is up at the Cabana and at Ravelry and at the Stitches Facebook group. The Cabana page has issues but you should be able to download the patterns okay. If you have a problem holler out to me using the form here.

I also made several hats recently. These are various sizes and colors. I made up the patterns using the basic hat increases. I used fpdc and fphdc on one and cross-stitch on another. Finished a couple with single crochet rounds and one is made long enough to double up. I also used DK weight yarn for some and worsted for some. So the word is variety!

That's about it.

Happy crocheting!
Sandie

hdc hat join

When I finished making the half double crochet hat (my first ever!) I noticed that while the joining of each round was solid, with no open spots, it was also visible and not straight. I counted my stitches and I did have the correct number.

My brain may not be functioning at full capacity since I stayed up late last night and got up early this morning, but I am unable to figure out why this is happening. If anyone has a clue, do holler out. Or if you make the hat from yesterday's post and have the same or different experience, also holler out, please. Although it is a perfectly serviceable hat, this bothers me. The join is the same as in the dc hat except with the different stitch and that hat did not do this.

Here is a picture from the front. I've never been partial to the hdc and rarely use it, but I have to say that the hdc does give a nice appearance to the hat. It's a closed stitch with not as much height as the double crochet and virtually no wiggle room between stitches. I think if I could figure out this angled join thing, I could like working with it in the round. This is probably some really simple thing and I'm just not grasping it right now. Still, inquiring minds want to know and I'd rather someone else use their considerable knowledge and brain power and just tell me. *lazy*

I think I will have to play with this using some other yarn. I don't want to waste the precious wool I was able to find for the troop hats figuring this out.

In other news, Annie's Attic had a big clearance sale and those are always so dangerous. LOL I picked up a few neat little books there at great discount. Here's what I got:

Granny Square Wear
Ta-wash-is in Crochet
Prayer Shawls 2
Savvy Single Crochet

Were there more that I wanted. YES! Of course! But I am happy with my purchases and look forward to taking them for a spin soon.

Happy crocheting!
Sandie

Basic Adult Beanie in HDC

Basic Adult Beanie in HDC

©2012 Sandra Petit, http://www.crochetcabana.com

This pattern is for personal or charity use. You may freely share for charity purposes.

Materials: G hook, Patons Classic Wool Chestnut Brown, Black, or Deep Olive

Abbreviations:
ch—chain
hdc—half double crochet
sc—single crochet
sl st—slip stitch
st—stitch

Size: Adult Large

Note: To give this hat a more closed stitching, it is important to use the (ch 1, hdc in same stitch) join. The ch-1 takes up that little space that sometimes remains when you use a chain up to height.

Warning: Apparently, the hdc is a particularly annoying little stitch in that the joins cause what Crochet with Dee calls a "traveling curve". Suggestions I've received have included finishing each round with the invisible join and restarting in a different spot, and putting the increases in different spots on each round. That said, the resulting hat is serviceable if the join doesn't bother you.

Instructions:
Use the adjustable ring or ch 4 and join with a slip stitch.

Round 1: ch 2, work 7 more hdc in ring, join with a sl st to top of beg ch-2. If you used the adjustable ring, pull on your loose strand to close the center hole (8 hdc)

Round 2: ch 1, 2 hdc in same stitch, 2 hdc in ea stitch around, join with a slip stitch to first hdc (16 hdc)
8 + 8 = 16. Increase in every stitch.

Round 3: ch 1, hdc in same stitch, 2 hdc in next st, (hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first hdc, (24 hdc) 
16 + 8 = 24. Increase in every other stitch.

Round 4: ch 1, hdc in same stitch, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, (hdc in ea of next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first hdc  (32 hdc)
24 + 8 = 32. Increase in every third stitch.

Round 5: ch 1, hdc in same stitch, hdc in each of next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in next st, (hdc in each of next 3 stitches, 2 hdc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first hdc (40 hdc)
32 + 8 = 40. Increase in every fourth stitch.

Round 6: ch 1, hdc in same stitch, hdc in each of next 3 stitches, 2 hdc in next st, (hdc in each of next 4 stitches, 2 hdc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first hdc (48 hdc)
40 + 8 = 48. Increase in every fifth stitch.

Round 7: ch 1, hdc in same stitch, hdc in each of next 4 stitches, 2 hdc in next st, (hdc in each of next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first hdc (56 hdc)
48 + 8 = 56. Increase in every sixth stitch.

Round 8: ch 1, hdc in same stitch, hdc in each of next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in next st, (hdc in each of next 6 stitches, 2 hdc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first hdc (64 hdc)
56 + 8 = 64. Increase in every seventh stitch.

Round 9: ch 1, hdc in same stitch, hdc in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to first hdc (64)

Round 10: ch 1, hdc in same stitch, hdc in each of next 6 stitches, 2 hdc in next st, (hdc in each of next 7 stitches, 2 hdc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first hdc (72 hdc)
64 + 8 = 72. Increase in every eighth stitch.

Round 11: ch 1, hdc in same stitch, hdc in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to first hdc (72)

Round 12: ch 1, hdc in same stitch, hdc in each of next 7 stitches, 2 hdc in next st, (hdc in each of next 8 stitches, 2 hdc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first hdc (80 hdc)
72 + 8 = 80. Increase in every ninth stitch.

Round 13: ch 1, hdc in same stitch, hdc in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to first hdc (80)

Measure circumference here. If it is 22" (or more) go to Round 15. If it is less than 21" then do another increase round.

Round 14: ch 1, hdc in same stitch, hdc in each of next 8 stitches, 2 hdc in next st, (hdc in each of next 9 stitches, 2 hdc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first hdc (88 hdc)
80 + 8 = 88. Increase in every tenth stitch.

Round 15—25: ch 1, hdc in same stitch, hdc in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to first hdc (88 hdc)

Periodically measure hat length as your tension might not be the same as mine. The single crochet rounds will add about an inch, so stop here when you are an inch shorter than the length for which you are aiming.

Round 26-29:  ch 1, sc in same stitch, sc in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to first sc (88 sc)

Finish off. Sew in ends.

This picture demonstrates size. It is not worked in this pattern.

Special note: Please, when joining yarn, do NOT knot and cut at the knot or leave just an inch of yarn. Please cut yarn several inches from the end and weave/sew the tails in securely. Thanks!

Basic Adult Beanie with Gradual Slope

Basic Adult Beanie with Gradual Slope

©2012 Sandra Petit, http://www.crochetcabana.com

This pattern is for personal or charity use. You may freely share for charity purposes. 

Materials: G hook, Patons Classic Wool Chestnut Brown, Black, or Deep Olive

Abbreviations:
ch—chain
dc—double crochet
sc—single crochet
sl st—slip stitch
st—stitch

Gauge: 12 dc and 7 rounds = 3” (Since a hat is curved, you may find it hard to measure this)

Size: Adult Large

Instructions:

Use the adjustable ring or ch 4 and join with a slip stitch.

Round 1: ch 2 or 3 (whatever you need to bring up to height) (counts as your first dc here and throughout), work 11 more dc in ring, join with a sl st to top of beg ch-3, If you used the adjustable ring, pull on your loose strand to close the center hole (12 dc)

Round 2: ch 1, 2 dc in same stitch, 2 dc in ea stitch around, join with a slip stitch to first dc (24 dc)
12 + 12 = 24. Increase in every stitch.

Round 3: ch 1, dc in same stitch, 2 dc in next st, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first dc, (36 dc)
24 + 12 = 36. Increase in every other stitch.

Round 4: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, (dc in ea of next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st) around (11 times), join with a sl st to first dc  (48 dc)
6 + 12 = 48. Increase in every third stitch.

Round 5: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in each of next 2 stitches, 2 dc in next st, (dc in each of next 3 stitches, 2 dc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first dc (60 dc)
48 + 12 = 60. Increase in every fourth stitch.

Begin gradual slope:
(Note: You can begin the gradual slope sooner if you want to)

Round 6: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in ea of next 8 sts, 2 dc in next st, (dc in ea of next 9 sts, 2 dc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first dc (66 sts)
60 + 6 = 66. Previous round (round 6) had 60 sts. You want 6 increases, so 60/6 = 10. Increase in every 10th stitch.

Round 7: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in ea of next 9 sts, 2 dc in next st, (dc in ea of next 10 sts, 2 dc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first dc (72 sts)
66 + 6 = 72.  66/6 = 11. Increase in every 11th stitch.

Round 8: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in ea of next 10 sts, 2 dc in next st, (dc in ea of next 11 sts, 2 dc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first dc (79 sts)
72 + 6 = 79.  72/6 = 12. Increase in every 12th st

Round 9-18: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in ea st around, join with a sl st to first dc (79 dc)

Measure from top of hat to rim. If it's the size you want, go to Round 19. For a man finished size should be between 8-10". The single crochet rounds will add another inch.

Round 19-22: ch 1, sc in ea st around, join with a sl st to first sc.   (79 sc)

Finish off. Sew in tails.

Special note: Please, when joining yarn, do NOT knot and cut at the knot or leave just an inch of yarn. Please cut yarn several inches from the end and weave/sew the tails in securely. Thanks!

Basic Adult Beanie with Flatter Top

Basic Adult Beanie with Flatter Top

©2012 Sandra Petit, http://www.crochetcabana.com

This pattern is for personal or charity use. You may freely share for charity purposes. 


Materials: G hook, Patons Classic Wool Chestnut Brown, Black, or Deep Olive

Abbreviations:
ch—chain
dc—double crochet
sc—single crochet
sl st—slip stitch
st—stitch

Gauge: 12 dc and 7 rounds = 3” (Since a hat is curved, you may find it hard to measure this)

Instructions:
Use the adjustable ring or ch 4 and join with a slip stitch.

Round 1: ch 2 or 3 (whatever you need to bring up to height) (counts as your first dc here and throughout), work 11 more dc in ring, join with a sl st to top of beg ch-3, If you used the adjustable ring, pull on your loose strand to close the center hole (12 dc)

Round 2: ch 1, 2 dc in same stitch, 2 dc in ea stitch around, join with a slip stitch to first dc (24 dc)
12 + 12 = 24. Increase in every stitch

Round 3: ch 1, dc in same stitch, 2 dc in next st, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first dc, (36 dc)
24 + 12 = 36. Increase in every other stitch

Round 4: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, (dc in ea of next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st) around (11 times), join with a sl st to first dc  (48 dc)
6 + 12 = 48. Increase in every third st

Round 5: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in each of next 2 stitches, 2 dc in next st, (dc in each of next 3 stitches, 2 dc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first dc (60 dc)
48 + 12 = 60, increase in every fourth st

Round 6: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in each of next 3 stitches, 2 dc in next st, (dc in each of next 4 stitches, 2 dc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first dc (72 dc)
60 + 12 = 60, increase in every fifth st

Round 7: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in each of next 4 stitches, 2 dc in next st, (dc in each of next 5 stitches, 2 dc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first dc (84 dc)
72 + 12 = 84, increase in every sixth st

Measure circumference of hat. You can do this by going around the inside of the hat with a piece of yarn, cut it and measure it, or use a flexible measuring tape to measure it. However you do it the circumference should be between 22” and 24”.

Round 8—18: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to first dc (84 dc)

Measure from top of hat to bottom rim. If it is 8”, start to work single crochet rounds. If not, do at least one more round of dc for a man’s hat. If the circumference was closer to 24” you might want to do more.
Finished hat can be between 8 and 10” in height. Heads come in all sizes.

Round 19-22: ch 1, sc in same stitch, sc in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to first sc. (84 sc)

Finish off. Sew in tails.

Special note: Please, when joining yarn, do NOT knot and cut at the knot or leave just an inch of yarn. Please cut yarn several inches from the end and weave/sew the tails in securely. Thanks!

Basic Adult Beanie pattern

 Basic Adult Beanie
©2012 Sandra Petit, http://www.crochetcabana.com

This pattern is for personal or charity use. You may freely share for charity purposes.

Materials: G hook, Patons Classic Wool Chestnut Brown, Black, or Deep Olive

Abbreviations:
ch—chain
dc—double crochet
sc—single crochet
sl st—slip stitch
st—stitch

Gauge: 12 dc and 7 rounds = 3” (Since a hat is curved, you may find it hard to measure this)

Size: Adult Large

Note: To give this hat a more closed stitching, it is important to use the smaller hook and the (ch 1, dc in same stitch) join. The ch-1 takes up that little space that sometimes remains when you use a ch-3 for the chain up to height.

Instructions:

Use the adjustable ring or ch 4 and join with a slip stitch.

Round 1: ch 2 or 3 (whatever you need to bring up to height) (counts as your first dc here and throughout), work 11 more dc in ring, join with a sl st to top of beg ch-3, If you used the adjustable ring, pull on your loose strand to close the center hole (12 dc)

Round 2: ch 1, 2 dc in same stitch, 2 dc in ea stitch around, join with a slip stitch to first dc (24 dc)
12 + 12 = 24. Increase in every stitch

Round 3: ch 1, dc in same stitch, 2 dc in next st, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first dc, (36 dc) 
24 + 12 = 36. Increase in every other stitch

Round 4: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, (dc in ea of next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st) around (11 times), join with a sl st to first dc  (48 dc)
6 + 12 = 48. Increase in every third stitch

If you want a flatter top to your hat, skip Rounds 5, 7, and 9 and add 4 more dc rounds after round 18. 

Round 5: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to first dc (48)

Round 6: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in each of next 2 stitches, 2 dc in next st, (dc in each of next 3 stitches, 2 dc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first dc (60 dc)
48 + 12 = 60, increase in every fourth stitch

Round 7: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to first dc (60)

Round 8: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in each of next 3 stitches, 2 dc in next st, (dc in each of next 4 stitches, 2 dc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first dc (72 dc)
60 + 12 = 72, increase in every fifth stitch

Round 9: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to first dc (72)

Round 10: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in each of next 4 stitches, 2 dc in next st, (dc in each of next 5 stitches, 2 dc in next st) around, join with a sl st to first dc (84 dc)
72 + 12 = 84, increase in every sixth stitch

Measure circumference of hat. You can do this by going around the inside of the hat with a piece of yarn, cut it and measure it, or use a flexible measuring tape to measure it. However you do it, the circumference should be between 22” and 24” for a man's hat.

Round 11—18: ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to first dc (84 dc)

Measure from top of hat to bottom rim. If it is 8”, start to work single crochet rounds. If not, do at least one more round of dc for a man’s hat. If the circumference was closer to 24” you might want to do more.

Finished hat can be between 8 and 10” in height. Heads come in all sizes.

Round 19-22: ch 1, sc in same stitch, sc in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to first sc. (84 sc)

Finish off. Sew in tails.

Special note: Please, when joining yarn, do NOT knot and cut at the knot or leave just an inch of yarn. Please cut yarn several inches from the end and weave/sew the tails in securely. Thanks!