All about hooks

All About Hooks

© 2012, 2016 Sandra Petit, http://www.crochetcabana.com

Buying hooks can be confusing. Did you know that there are dozens of different kinds of hooks? I’m not going to attempt to cover every single option as there are so many manufacturers and individuals who make crochet hooks, both as a hobby and as their primary source of income. However, I will try to give you an overview to help you maneuver through the maze.

Parts of a Crochet Hook

First, you should know the parts of your hook to aid in discussion with other crochet fanatics.

Obviously the head or hook is an essential part of the entire tool and what makes it different from knitting needles. While some people do refer to it as the “hook,” it is often called the "point" or "head" to distinguish it from the hook as a whole.

There are two basic hook types. I call them Bates and Boye, but they are really inline and tapered. This refers to the shape of the head and throat of the hook. Sometimes it is difficult to tell the difference between inline and tapered hooks. Many crocheters, however, have a strong opinion of which is better, meaning which one they prefer to use, often exclusively. I am a Boye or tapered gal. I do use Bates, but not as often as I use the tapered hooks. I have a good number of both in my collection. Neither is really better than the other, it is simply a matter of personal preference.

You’ll notice a difference in Bates and Boye hooks as to the size of the shaft. Bates has a shorter shaft, whereas Boye has a longer shaft.

Not all crochet hooks have a grip (also called the thumb rest). Some are straight or made in other ways, such as the wooden or clay hooks.

The handle is often the part of the hook where hook designers let their creativity flow. Many small business owners take aluminum hooks and add clay handles in various colors and designs. Some places add a topper to the hook. It might be an animal like an owl or some other popular item. There are hooks with bamboo handles. There are hooks with rubberized handles such as the Etimo which are kind to your fingers, similar to the way in which your feet prefer to walk on carpet than a hard floor.

Materials

We know that hooks vary in diameter, circumference and length which makes a difference in the size of our finished products. Hooks vary also in material. This may or may not affect the size of your finished product, but it may well affect your enjoyment of the process if you are using an uncomfortable hook or one that doesn’t work well with the yarn or thread being used.

Some of the common materials from which hooks (or parts of hooks) are fashioned include various types of wood, plastic, rubber, clay, Corian, steel, brass, gold, silver, and aluminum. The difference in material may also greatly affect the price of the hook.

I have in my own collection hooks made with walnut, rosewood, cherry, maple, eucalyptus, holly, bamboo, plastic, Corian, steel, bronze, aluminum and some with rubber, clay or bamboo handles. I don’t know the material used for many of the hooks I own, but I appreciate each of them for their own unique qualities. I have two favorite hooks - My L hook made of venaro rose Corian is precious to me as is my Inox made in Germany aluminum hooks. Both of these are irreplaceable as they’re no longer made.

I received an e-mail from someone who told me she has a bone hook from her grandmother. A quick online search showed a few bone hooks available for purchase (Feb.2013) but they are rare. The descriptions of the items I saw did not say what type of bone it was.

Why choose one material over the other? Well, from my view I like to have many different types around. To a degree the type of hook that works best for you in most circumstances will be a personal choice. but I can give you a little insight into them.

Metal hooks are generally cold and hard, but also allow the yarn to slide easily off your hook. This can be good or bad depending on how fast you crochet and how skilled you are.

Wood or bamboo are warmer to work with. The yarn may slide over the hook well too if it is smooth and well made. Many wooden hooks have a straight body without a grip or thumb rest.

Corian feels cold to the touch when you begin using it, similar to the metal hooks. If you need a warm hook because of a health condition like arthritis, you might want to stick to wood or rubber coated hooks.

Plastic hooks vary among the type. I have found some plastic hooks to work very well and last a long time while others don’t work so well and break easily.

Sometimes how the hook works depends on the yarn or thread you are using. Some threads just seem to work better with a particular hook, so if you are having trouble just switch to a different hook of the same size. You might find a difference.

Similarly hooks with a clay handle give a lot of variation in color and design. They can also be made with thick handles which are nice for those who have trouble gripping small handled hooks. If there is a 3D design on the hook handle you may find this uncomfortable until you get used to it. Then again, some folks just like to collect hooks for the beauty of them and have a few that are for show and not extensive use.

There are pros and cons to working with a hook with an added handle as opposed to hooks made in one piece. There is no standard among them in that sometimes the shaft of the hook is short and sometimes it is longer. If you are having your hook custom made you might be able to specify how you want your hook. Otherwise you just have to try different hooks and see which suits your needs. I prefer a longer shaft myself. The little short ones don’t seem to work well for me.

Sometimes you can get hooks custom made for you through a crafter on Etsy or Ebay type sites. Here is a hook fashioned after Doctor Who's sonic screwdriver.

Smaller hooks, used for crocheting with thread, are made of steel, and are usually called “steel hooks” to differentiate from those used with yarn.

I have a number of interesting steel hooks in my collection. One has a price on it--15¢. The price is right on the hook! I have a number of these with different prices on them. I have also noticed in videos on YouTube that some other crocheters have these antique hooks which they use in their tutorials.

Specialty Hooks

Besides the normal hooks shown here, there are specialty hooks you can purchase. 

The Afghan hook is used with the Tunisian crochet, also called afghan stitch. It uses the same basic sizing system as a regular 5" to 7" hook, but it is generally much longer, 10" or 14" long. You can also get afghan hooks with a flexible wire so you can hold more stitches. It is similar to the knitting system of using circular needles.

The hook used for Crochet on the Double and Crochetnit has a hook on both ends of the tool. The hook is the same size on both ends.

A fairly new tool on the market is the Knook. It is generally made of bamboo and has a hole at the top where you thread cord. It is used to "knit" with a crochet hook.

You can also get lighted crochet hooks for use when you need to focus the light on your stitches. This could be useful if you lose power and are crocheting in the dark, if you are riding in a car at night, or just if your vision is poor. 

Size

An important consideration when purchasing hooks is size – both in length and in circumference. You can find very thin hooks, generally in the steel hooks, and hooks all the way up to 3” around. They might be 5” long and on up to a few feet though most are up to 14” or so.

The very thick hooks could be used for working with very thick yarn or multiple strands of yarn. The Go Girl big hooks are some of these. You can find other similarly sized hooks at Etsy and other places. These would be especially good to make rugs which wouldn’t need to be washed very often.

Hook sizes can be confusing because manufacturers don’t always use the same exact scale and private or custom made hooks have no standard to use.

Besides that, U.S. and European hooks are labeled differently. (They also use crochet terms differently.)

So many people make oversized hooks now that the mm size for those may not be accurate for these.

	“Letter Size” “Number Size” Size in Millimeters A ? 2.0 B 1 2.25/2.5 C 2 2.75/3.0 D 3 3.25 E 4 3.5 F 5 3.75/4.0 G 6 4.0/4.25 7* 7 4.5 H 8 5.0 I 9 5.5 J 10 6 K 10 1/2 6.5 L 11 8 M/N 13 9 N/P 15 10 O 12 in between size Turn of the Century 13 P 16 15 Q 15.75/16 S 35 19/20 T 22 U 25 V 28 W 31

Below is a list of the hooks that are normally used with the particular yarn or thread. Doesn’t mean you can’t use a different one if you so choose. It’s just a general guideline. The first chart is the regular hooks. The second is steel hooks.

	Yarn U.S. Hook Size Range Sock, fingering, baby B-1 to E-4 Sport E-4 to 7 D.K. 7 to I-9 Worsted, afghan, Aran H-8 to K-10 1/2 Chunky, craft, rug K-10 1/2 to M13 Super bulky M13 and larger

	Hook MM - U.S. U.K. Hook Suggested Thread 00 3.5 3 0 3.25 0 5 1 2.75 1 2 2.25 1.5 3 2.1 2 4 2.0 2.5 5 1.9 3 6 1.8 3.5 7 1.65 4 10 8 1.5 4.5 10 9 1.4 5 20 10 1.3 5.5 20-30 11 1.1 6 30-40 12 1.0 6.5 30-60 13 .85 7 40-80 14 .75 80-100

Happy crocheting!
Sandie

FAQ Part 3

FAQ - Part 3

YARN FAQ

What kind of yarn should I use? Cotton or acrylic? Wool or man-made? All kinds of yarn have their uses! Acrylic yarn is fine for most purposes. I use it for afghans a lot. I also use blends of wool and other fibers. Some people are allergic to wool, but if they are not, wool is perfect for warm afghans. If you’re working from a pattern, it will usually tell you what type will work best.

How can I tell if my yarn is wool or acrylic? You wouldn’t want to shrink or felt it in washing or use it in a product you’re making for someone with a wool allergy.

There are at least two ways of telling if your yarn is wool or acrylic.

1) Take a tiny snip of yarn, light it with a match. If it smells like burning hair, it’s wool. If it smells like plastic, it’s acrylic.

2) Put a few inches of yarn in a small jar of chlorine bleach. If it’s wool it will dissolve. If it is acrylic it won’t. If it is a blend, it will look like part of it has dissolved.

Where’s the center pull? I like a center pull, but manufacturers don’t ask me what I like, more’s the pity and sometimes skeins/hanks don’t have one. Even if they do have one, sometimes it’s hard to find that center thread in a skein of yarn. Of course, it’s good if you DO find it as it makes your tension smoother as you crochet. If you absolutely can’t find the center pull thread in a skein that should have one, you have options.

You can find the ending strand and rewind the yarn into a ball which would make it easier to unwind for crocheting. A yarn winder is a nice tool to have in your crochet arsenal for these instances. Be sure to wind loosely so you don’t stretch the yarn. If you don’t have a ball winder or just don’t want to do that, you could use the end thread as you work. Be sure to unwind enough for several stitches to keep your tension even. I have heard that if you use the ending thread you are using the thread in the opposite direction from which it was wound and thus not as it was intended to be used. Whether this will cause any problems, I don’t know.

If you are using a variegated yarn and you use one strand from the center pull and another from the end, in a continuous piece like an afghan, your colors may be backwards on one end. It’s good to check variegated yarn anyway as I’ve had some that were apparently wound in the opposite direction as my colors were in a different order on different skeins.

Before you pull your center thread out, look on the other side for a thread that is tucked into the skein. That is the ending thread. If you pull it out, when you grab your center pull you should have little trouble. If you forget to do that or it’s not obvious which is the ending thread, when you pull on the center thread it may be tight. If that is the case, as you pull on your center pull thread, look to see if a thread tightens at the opposite end. That would be the end tail which got caught around your center pull thread. If you can pull it out then, great. If not, just clip the yarn at the OPPOSITE end (not your center pull thread) just where it tightens. Be careful not to clip anything else. If you clip it, when you pull on your center thread, that small piece will come out. Just untangle it from your center pull thread and throw it away or use it for your magic ball. I don’t recall reading this suggestion anywhere before, but it happens to me all the time and I’m sure others must know this too.

On skeins that don’t have a center pull, I will sometimes dig in there and find it. I’m told this is not the best thing to do, but I do it anyway. I do like my center pull.

Should I wind all my yarn into balls? If you have a ball winder and it only takes you a few minutes, and you really want to, go ahead and wind all your skeins into balls (be sure to do it loosely not to stretch the yarn). Then put them into a paper bag or one of those gift bags, on the floor by your feet, as you work or use a yarn bowl. They now make yarn bowls in many sizes and materials. Yarn will roll around in the container and you won’t have to go chasing it around the room.

I use the center pull on my skeins whenever possible. I do ball the leftovers when finished with a project and I also ball yarn when I am frogging (ripping) a project. I will often put my skein in a plastic Ziploc bag as I find this helps with the end-of-skein mess you sometimes get. When I put the skein in a bag I have very little trouble.

Can I substitute one yarn for another? Short answer: Maybe. The best way to determine that is to make a gauge swatch. Not all yarns of any particular kind are equal, so whether your yarn will make a good substitute needs more consideration. Sometimes you can tell just by looking at the two yarns side by side. If size of your finished project is not a consideration - say it’s a scarf and it doesn’t matter if it’s a little off in size - then yes you can substitute any worsted weight yarn for any other worsted weight yarn; just know that the size may be slightly off what is noted in the pattern. If size IS a consideration, make a swatch and see if you get the gauge listed in the pattern.

Can I use cotton or acrylic yarn instead of thread? That perfect pattern is made with thread and I don’t have any. Yes, you can substitute cotton or acrylic yarn, but the size won’t be the same. Thread is thinner than yarn, much thinner. The item will be significantly larger in yarn than in thread, but not necessarily awful looking. Some items look nice large or small. If it is clothing you definitely want to use the suggested size thread or yarn or it will not fit correctly.

I don’t have enough yarn from the same dye lot to complete my project. What do I do? You can try buying a skein that looks similar, but if the yarns are placed side by side in a project, you may be able to tell where the new yarn was joined. Another option is to go with a contrasting or complementary color to complete your project, if that is possible.

Sometimes store personnel will call around and try to find more of your yarn in the same dye lot, if they are a chain and have more than one store in the area, and the salesperson is a sweetheart. You could always ask. Even the “no dye lot” skeins do have a slight color variation in skeins purchased at different times. This won’t matter if you’re not using it on the same project, but if you put two even slightly off color skeins next to one another on the same project, you will be able to see the difference. This is true of variegated yarns as well as solid color.

When working on a large project, it is sometimes difficult to find enough yarn in one store to complete your project. In this case, you can order a sufficient quantity of yarn from a catalog or online store. This way you can order as many skeins of one color as you need, and they should all be from the same dye lot. Of course, you take a chance if you don’t know specifically the name/number color of your yarn. I have purchased some in the past, judging by the picture on the web site and was disappointed in the color. However, if the color is not critical or you know the actual name or number you want, this is a way to go.

Also, when using variegated yarn, when you start a new skein, check to be sure your colors are appearing in the same order as previously. Sometimes they wind the yarn backwards, though I’m not sure how that happens. I just learned a neat trick to keep the variegated yarn from making a "pattern" in your work (color flashing and color pooling). You can use two skeins, changing skeins from one row to the next, but don’t cut the yarn. Just carry it up the side as I show in my tutorial on joining new colors.

Extra hint: Buy MORE than you think you need. You can always use extra, but can’t always get the same yarn if you run out. And you can probably return the unused portion if you keep your receipt and do it within a reasonable time frame.

How can I clean a skein of yarn before using it? Jean Felton told me to place a skein of yarn in an old stocking, tie the ends securely, and throw it in the washer. Now you can see if that “stain” comes out before you spend a lot of time making something from it. Another lady (sorry I can’t remember who it was) said that if your completed project has a smoky smell, put it outside in the rain. I did have some preemie afghans with a strong smoke odor. I washed them in Tide and used a Cling Free dryer sheet and the smell seemed to come out though I’m told it is only temporary fix and it comes back. I can’t give a definitive answer to that one. You could also try hanging them outdoors after washing (or even before) if you have a clothes line.

Deborah in Arizona sent me still another washing hint: wash using cold water and one half cup of white vinegar in the wash cycle to set all dyes and remove all preservatives used in the yarns.

Are these two yarns the same weight? Weight is generally listed on the yarn label. If you don’t have the label you can try doing a yarn wrap of each yarn. For example, wrap each yarn around a ruler one inch. If they take the same number of wraps per inch, they are probably good to combine in one project. Make sure you are using the same tension when wrapping to get an accurate idea.

Happy crocheting!
Sandie

FAQ Part 2

I decided to break this up since it was so long.

FAQ - Part 2

GENERAL CROCHET FAQ

What do the skill level terms found at the beginning of a pattern mean? The designer of the pattern determines what skill level he or she chooses to put on it, if any.They mean different things to different people. You might also remember that being ABLE to do something and wanting to do it or wanting to take the time to mess with it are not the same thing. You might have the skill to do it, but it may not be something you are interested in doing.

I love this knit pattern! Can I crochet it? In my opinion, you cannot get an exact duplicate of a knitted item in crochet. I can tell you that if you are trying to duplicate colors of a knitted item (like a scarf, for example), you need to know if the designer has written the pattern in rows or ridges. It takes two rows to make a ridge. Here’s some info that might be useful. I use it when working my Doctor Who scarves.

2 rows knit = one row single crochet
3 rows of knit = 1 row half double crochet
4 rows of knit = 1 row of double crochet
6 rows of knit = 1 row of triple (or treble) crochet

My pattern calls for a hook I don’t have. Can I substitute another size? Of course you can. However, your project may not turn out the size it says in the pattern and you may not have the right amount of yarn. Check your pattern BEFORE buying your yarn. Keep in mind that some things are made to fit. In that case, you should check gauge before choosing a hook and purchase the yarn weight suggested if you want that fit.

How do you measure crocheted squares? Across, not diagonally.

I need to join my squares. Should I use sewing thread? No. Do not use sewing thread. Use the same material with which you made your project.

How long will it take me to finish this pattern? Well, that depends. How fast are you? You don't know? Then you need to find out.

Every pattern will be different because patterns are of different complexity. If you need to know whether you have enough time to finish an afghan before Christmas or a special birthday or whatever, time yourself while crocheting one row of the project. You might want to time yourself say three separate times and take the average. Then figure out how many rows you need. Multiply the time it took you to make one row by the number of rows and voila, that's how long it will take you to make the blankie in a perfect world.

Keep in mind that this is if you continue to crochet without stopping. Of course, you're going to stop - you have to cook, eat, use the bathroom, shower, bring the kids here and there, check your e-mail. You also will not crochet without stopping, especially if you're having a conversation or watching a movie or TV program that steals your attention. So figure at least three times whatever you come up with (in daylight hours unless you crochet in your sleep). Or you might double the time you get for each row. Say it takes you 15 minutes to do a row when you're concentrating fully on that. Estimate then that it will take you 30 minutes per row when you're not doing something else while crocheting.

Don't forget to add time for edging and sewing in ends, which can take quite a while. Your edging will take longer than your rows because the length will be longer.

Example 1: I timed myself while crocheting a row in a doll blankie I was making. It took me 6 minutes to do one row. I knew I needed 45 rows, so that is 270 minutes, or 4.5 hours. If I would have done nothing but crochet on that blankie, I would have finished it in approximately 4.5 hours, probably a little longer since you won't go at the same speed the entire time you're crocheting. When you're timing yourself you tend to go faster to meet the challenge. How long did it actually take me? Two days. Besides the 45 rows, I also did a two round border and then had to sew in the ends.

Example 2: I was working a dc ripple using blo (back loop only). I mention the blo because it takes longer to do. You wouldn't think so, but it does because you have to pull that back thread where it is more automatic to go through both loops. You have to watch what you're doing. I timed myself crocheting one row. It took about 16 minutes. Later, I timed myself while watching television. It took about a half hour. There were times I found it took even longer if it was an exciting show or the dog wanted to go out often, or the kids needed something. I estimated I would need about 130 rows. At the shortest time that would be about 35 hours for the afghan, not counting the edging and sewing in the ends. At a half hour per row, that would be 65 hours, also not counting edging and ends. That's quite a difference - well, almost twice as long *grin*. Unless you have a family who really appreciates crochet, you won't get more than a couple hours where you can concentrate on crocheting. I cheated. I found movie marathons and got them interested in them because this was something I wanted to finish before Christmas and I definitely needed more than 2 hours per day of crocheting time. I also went no-mail on my e-mail lists, and didn't plan any elaborate meals during that time. :-)

So, how long would it take to complete that afghan? It is a twin size afghan if you're wondering. Figuring 2 hours per day at the longer time because that is more realistic, it would be 33 days.

Why do all this figuring anyway? Well, in this case, I didn't HAVE 33 days to complete this project, so I knew I needed to work more than 2 hours per day, possibly spending a few late nights.

Don't forget to add mailing time if you have to send off that project!

I can’t read this pattern! It looks like Greek to me. What do I do?
Copy the pattern text into a word processing program then change all the abbreviations to their actual meanings. For example, change sc to single crochet. Be careful if you use find and replace as you could change something you were not expecting. Another option is to put each instruction on a separate line. Print out an abbreviation list for reference.

I’ve made an afghan from a pattern I found in a book. Can I sell it?
That depends on the designer/publisher’s policies. Always check first if it’s not specifically stated in the book or on the web site.

I might also note that for works copyrighted before 1923, they are now in the public domain and anything published after 1978 is considered copyrighted whether the person has filed or not. Other years require more information to know whether they are still copyrighted or not. When in doubt, check it out.

If the designer or publisher does not say specifically that you can, then you must ask permission, even if you purchased the pattern.

My pattern uses rounds, not rows--how do I do it? Working in rounds means that you will be going in a circle rather than working right to left or left to right in rows. There are many tutorials dealing with the technique. Check my YouTube channel.

Should I weave in as I go, or wait until I’m finished with the project? It really doesn’t matter as far as how your finished project will look, but if you are one who can’t help but rip back when you find an error, no matter how far back it is, then you might like to save the weaving until the end when you’re satisfied all is well with your work and there are no mistakes. That is because it is sometimes hard to rip the section where you wove the ends in, especially if you did a really good job. You might end up having to cut the yarn in places and not have enough left to weave in again.

How can I keep my work from unraveling before it’s completed? I have used various methods to keep my stitches from coming apart when someone accidentally gets tangled up in my work, or I put it down and when I pick it up again, I have to search for the end of it etc. Stitch holders work, as do paper clips, and safety pins, but of late I have been using "Lil’s Knot". By using this method, I don’t have to make sure I have a handy paper clip or safety pin or stitch holder. All I need is my fingers and the yarn, which I have. LOL

How big should I make this ...? In regards to afghans, measure or look up how big the area that you want to cover is. If it’s a scarf, I have read that it’s customary to make a scarf at least as long as the person is tall.

What can I do if I discover too late that I didn’t make enough foundation chains? If your pattern says chain 150, just chain 155 or 160. When you complete the required stitches of your pattern, you can undo the extra stitches. It is easier to undo a few stitches, than to have to redo 150 chains! I do recommend you go back and check your pattern to be sure you didn’t make a mistake before you undo those chains--especially if the first row is straight sc or dc. :-)

You can also add a few stitches by making more foundation chains on the end of the ones you’ve already made. Just insert your hook in the slip knot and use the dangling strand to make the chains. Now in order for this to work, you need to leave a looonnggg yarn end. So if you plan to be short *smile*, make sure your yarn end is long. I suggest leaving a long end regardless.

Jean Leinhauser has a wonderful lesson (with pictures) on this method in the book, The Crochet Yearbook (ASN). There are several great tips and tutorials in this book. I highly recommend it.

If you are interested in another method where you do not have to make a long chain, but can make your first row at the same time as your foundation chain, then there is another way to handle this problem. What you do, briefly, is to chain 2 for a foundation chain, single crochet into the second chain from hook, then for your next stitch, you insert your hook into the base of your sc, yo and pull up one loop, yo and draw through one loop on hook (this becomes the base or chain for your next stitch), yo and draw through both loops on hook.

You can find many videos on variations of starting your row with both the foundation chain and the first row together. It might be called the foundation single crochet, or foundationless single crochet, or no foundation chain, or some other variation.

Should I wash my finished project? I have discovered that washing projects sometimes causes strange things to happen so better to happen to me than the person I’m sending it to, right? Threads you thought secure may pop out at you. Also, some yarns become much softer after washing. Red Heart yarn is this way. Stiff to work with, but soft after washing. I’d rather send off a soft piece than a rough one.

If you’re short on time, though, and your ends don’t normally pop out, you can certainly send it without washing as well. Most Moms wash newborn items before using anyway. It would be thoughtful to include the yarn label washing instructions, or your own little note telling the recipient how to wash the piece. I find people are sometimes hesitant to wash a handmade item as they are afraid to damage it.

How should I wash crocheted pieces? I just throw mine in the washing machine, on gentle cycle with my regular detergent. Cold water, gentle cycle and low heat are good for most acrylic items. Then in the dryer with a softener sheet. If it’s for a baby, I usually use Ivory Snow or Dreft or anything made for babies that won’t take the fire-proofing stuff out. For preemie items, the softener smell may be too strong so you may prefer to use softener in the washing machine rather than the dryer for those items or use one of the fabric softener sheets with no scent added.

Keep in mind that crocheted items may stretch if hung, so they should be folded and stored flat. You can wrap in tissue if you’re storing it for the summer or a long period of time. In her book, Crochet 200 Q&A, Rita Taylor suggests using blue tissue paper to keep white cotton items looking white. I was glad to read this hint because, to my disappointment, I have had items develop yellow spots.

Bonnie in Washington suggested hand-washing items which use mixed yarn types with a mild shampoo.

Some yarns have a longer drying time than others. Make sure your piece is completely dry before packing it into a plastic bag or your item will arrive damp and the bag will be full of droplets.

Why do I always hear not to make knots? What’s wrong with knots? 

Why do we not like knots?

First you should understand what I don't mean by knotting. I don't mean the finish-off or loosely tying two pieces together when you've joined a new skein of yarn, to hold them together temporarily while you continue working, then weaving in each of the long tails in later. If you are making a project for donation to a charity and are not sure what your particular group means when they say knotting, ASK, because some groups have strict rules about knotting and you want to be clear on this as you want your hard work to be used.

What I do mean by knotting is tying your two strands together tightly and/or then tying them again. Or tying your single strand into a knot. In either case, if you cut the strand right after the knot, this is bad, bad, bad. Whether you choose to tie, leave a long strand and weave it in, or you choose not to tie and weave your long tails in, I won't cause a fuss. There is a lot of controversy about which is best so you have to do what you feel is right. But please do not knot and then cut right there because that just won't work. Your lovely work will come undone.

I believe that right and wrong is a blurred line in most things crochet - if it works for you, it is okay. But some things are wrong at the core because they will not give you a quality finished product that will bring pleasure to you or the recipient for many years.

Knotting and cutting at the knot is one of these. Knotting and leaving a 1" piece of yarn is another. Always, always leave a long tail as noted above.  

But WHY? Why is this bad, you want to know? Here's why.

1) They can pull apart, before, after, or during a washing -- no matter how tightly you think you've tied them. I've had squares come apart while assembling an afghan of donated squares.

2) If you did tie them tightly, this can weaken the strand and it may break. I have also seen this when, in order to save the square, I've tried to sew in strands that have been knotted. If you pull too tightly on them the yarn breaks. You can see this yourself if you pull tightly on yarn. Some kinds are more susceptible to breaking than others, of course.

3) It creates a bump that you can feel. This is actually painful to sensitive skin (cancer patients and preemies for example) and even if you do not have sensitive skin it is not good to feel that hard bump in an otherwise soft, smooth piece.

4) Knots are hard to crochet over, particular in adding to a piece (for example, a charity assembler adding an edging to a square) or joining squares or strips or clothing pieces.

5) After washing, the tip of the sewn in tail sometimes pokes out and can be clipped if you have sewn in a long strand. In the case of two ends that have been knotted, occasionally the section where the knot is will come out. This is next to impossible to sew back in, because there is no "open" segment to thread.

The preferred, professional method of finishing is to weave in long tails.

Why do I have to leave long ends? There are several reasons that I, and other experienced crocheters, suggest leaving long ends. Dee Stanziano, of Crochet with Dee, put these into list form for us. I have received permission to share them with you in my own words.

1. The more you weave in, the less chance your afghan/sweater or whatever will later come apart. (added note: some folks like to weave a few inches and one direction and then head back in the other direction for extra stability.)

2. If you left a long tail at the beginning of your foundation chain, and you find you made too few, you can make more chains with the beginning long strand. As Dee says, "it's a plug on amazing "fudge-ability" crochet has to offer over knitting".

3. In later years if a hole develops or repair is needed, the crocheter can use that long tail to make the repair, matching the fiber and color exactly.

Amy Ries also gives some insight into why the long ends (reprinted with permission) from the viewpoint of an assembler joining squares.

Assembling is like building a house of cards. You make a square with a certain yarn, a certain tension, a certain pattern. Several other people also make squares with a different yarn, a different tension, a different pattern. Then I [the assembler] come along and add yet another card to the tower with my yarn and a joining method. It creates stress on your square that wouldn't normally happen if you just made a stack of squares yourself and joined them all together. I've seen the best intentioned squares unravel, and it's horrible to have it happen once the ghan is complete. That's why I say that making a complete ghan is your chance at individuality. Making squares is all of us coming together making something as similar as possible. That's why there are rules about squares.  Not to cramp your style, just to make sure we create something that will last. If your square comes to me with a problem, it takes me extra time to fix it. That adds up to less ghans that I'll have time to assemble.

Happy crocheting!
Sandie