Nest Pattern

DC Nest Pattern
c2008 Sandra Petit,
http://www.crochetcabana.com

IMPORTANT: If you are making these for real animals, note that some places will NOT take the dc nests, so check before sending. If you are making them for a different purpose, they should certainly hold a stuffed animal or other small items.

Materials: J hook or size needed to get proper stiffness ; couple ounces smooth acrylic yarn for working 2 or more strands

I suggest using the greatest number of strands you can comfortably manage with the smallest hook you can use with that number of strands.

Note about materials: you can use 2 or more strands of one color, or multiple colors. Those pictured use one strand white and one strand pink or green. You could also use a bulky or super bulky yarn - whatever gives you a tight weave. I made some with one strand worsted and one strand chunky.

Instructions:
Holding two (or more) strands together, make a ring - I use the adjustable ring so I can close it up tight

Note: I use ch 2 for my turning chain. Feel free to use ch 3 if you find that works better for you.

Note: The sides of your nest MUST stand up on their own and nests must have no holes. This is very important. Make sure you use either enough strands or a small enough hook to get a very tight stitch.

Round 1: holding two strands together, ch 2, work 11 dc in ring, join with a sl st to top chain of first ch-2 (12 dc)

Round 2: ch 2 (do not turn), work 1 dc in same stitch, work 2 dc in each dc around, join with a sl st to top chain of first ch-2 (24 dc)

Round 3: ch 2 (do not turn), work 2 dc in next stitch, *1 dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch, rep from * around, join with a sl st to top chain of first ch-2 (36 dc)

Note: Measure your bottom. If you want a wider bottom, work another increase round here which would be 2 dc in every third stitch. In other words (dc, dc, 2 dc). Your bottom should be anywhere from 3" to 6".

Round 4: ch 2 (do not turn), work 1 dc in every stitch around, join with a sl st to top chain of first ch-2

Rounds 5 - 6: repeat round 4 for a 2" side.

Note: For a 3" side, work 2 additional rounds.

Finish off and weave in ends. If you worked with double strand, I weave in each strand individually, not as a group, going in one direction and then another, to make sure it stays put.

If you would like to work nests in single crochet, you can find a pattern at Bev's Country Cottage http://www.bevscountrycottage.com/nest.html.
All the centers can use the single crochet ones as long as they are tightly woven with no holes.

If your nest doesn't stand up as you think it should, you can turn it over, add more rounds and make it a hat for the homeless. There is always a need for those as well.

Puff Victory Scarf

Puff Victory Scarf
© 2007 by Sandra Petit
http://www.crochetcabana.com

This and all of my patterns are for your personal or charity use only and are not to be posted on any web site, e-mail lists, or anywhere else without my explicit permission. Items made with my patterns may be sold individually, no bulk sales. For more information on my policies, you can always check http://www.crochetcabana.com/copyright.htm.

Materials: H hook, 4-ply worsted weight yarn

Size: 7 1/2” x 60”

Common pattern abbreviations:
ch = chain
hk = hook
ea = each
rnd = round
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
yo = yarn over

Special Stitches:

Puff Stitch = (YO, insert hk in sc, YO, pull loop through even with hk) 3 times, YO

and draw through all 7 loops on hook.

Instructions:

ch 26,

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hk and in ea ch across, ch 1, turn. (25 sc)

Row 2: sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: 12 sc, puff, 12 sc, ch 1, turn. (1st puff row)

Row 4: repeat row 2

Row 5: 11 sc, puff, sc, puff, 11sc, ch 1, turn. (2nd puff row)

Row 6: repeat row 2

Row 7: 10 sc, puff, 3 sc, puff, 10sc, ch 1, turn. (3rd puff row)

Row 8: repeat row 2

Row 9: 9 sc, puff, 5 sc, puff, 9 sc, ch 1, turn. (4th puff row)

Row10: repeat row 2

Row 11: 8 sc, puff, 7sc, puff, 8sc, ch 1, turn. (5th puff row)

Row 12: repeat row 2

Row 13: 7sc, puff, 9 sc, puff, 7 sc, ch 1, turn. (6th puff row)

Row 14: repeat row 2

Row 15: 6 sc, puff, 11 sc, puff, 6 sc, ch 1, turn. (7th puff row)

Row 16: repeat row 2

Row 17: 5 sc, puff, 13 sc, puff, 5 sc, ch 1, turn. (8th puff row)

Row 18 to 112: sc in each st across

Reverse V:

Row 113: 5 sc, puff, 13 sc, puff, 5 sc, ch 1, turn. (1st puff row)

Row 114 sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 115: 6 sc, puff, 11 sc, puff, 6 sc, ch 1, turn. (2nd puff row)

Row 116: repeat row 2

Row 117: 7sc, puff, 9 sc, puff, 7 sc, ch 1, turn. (3rd puff row)

Row 118: repeat row 2

Row 119: 8 sc, puff, 7sc, puff, 8sc, ch 1, turn. (4th puff row)

Row 120: repeat row 2

Row 121: 9 sc, puff, 5 sc, puff, 9 sc, ch 1, turn. (5th puff row)

Row 122: repeat row 2

Row 123: 10 sc, puff, 3 sc, puff, 10sc, ch 1, turn. (6th puff row)

Row 124: repeat row 2

Row 125: 11 sc, puff, sc, puff, 11sc, ch 1, turn. (7th puff row)

Row 126: repeat row 2

Row 127: 12 sc, puff, 12 sc, ch 1, turn. (8th puff row)

Row 128-129: repeat row 2

Border:

Rnd 1: making sure you are on the side that shows the puff stitches, sc in ea sc across, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, sc evenly down side so work stays flat,

(sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, sc in ea ch across foundation row,

(sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, Sc evenly along side of work,
join to first sc with sl st or invisible finish off

Note: You can use whatever works for you in the corners. The goal is to keep the work flat. Some options I have used include:
A - 3 sc in each corner
B - (sc, ch 2, sc)   
C - (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc)
D - (2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc)
E - (sc, hdc, sc)
F - (sc, ch 1, sc, ch 1, sc)

Wordless Scarf

Wordless Scarf
©2007, rev 2011 Sandra Petit

 














Materials: H hook, ounce or two of yarn in the following colors: gold (or yellow), black, red, white, blue and green. (Note: yarn quantities may change if you choose to use a different color scheme)

Size: depends on square size

Procedure: Make 12 squares of your choice, 2 of each color. Last round of each square may be black for ease in invisible joining. (See comments for color variations)

To assemble, place each square right sides together and join with a whipstitch.

The scarf is based on the wordless book and made in the colors of the book, to "tell" the story of our salvation. Each color has a meaning. Gold (heaven), black (sin), red (blood of Jesus), white (purity, cleansed from sin), blue (baptism), green (growth).

There are many places online to read the story. This particular one has each color on a separate page. The text is written very simply so the message is clear.  

According to Wikipedia, Charles Spurgeon first used the idea of the wordless method of teaching. He used three basic colors: black, red, and white. Gold was added later by Dwight Moody and Green later by Child Evangelism Fellowship. At some point blue was added as well. I have even seen purple added, for royalty.

Depending on the use for which you intend the scarf, you can decide which colors you want to use. Just take that into consideration when purchasing yarn.

Scarves are not the only thing that can be made with these colors, and used for this purpose. My introduction to the wordless book was in making bracelets. I have instructions in how to make bracelets at Crafty Corral.

I have a page of preemie afghans using these colors here. Here's a photo of the V-stitch preemie afghan.

I have also made afghans using these colors.

Several years ago, the following poem was donated to go with the little wordless preemie blankets I had made for some young children. The author chooses to remain anonymous. 

You are given permission to include the poem with your blankies.

I have a little blanket,
I love to hold it tight;
For hidden in its colored stripes
Is a great delight.

Each color holds a piece, you see,
Of a story dear and true;
And because I love it so,
I'm sharing it with you!
GOLD is for the precious gold
With which the streets are paved,
In Heaven above, where all will go,
If sure they have been saved.

But saved from what, you may well ask,
That too, my colors tell;BLACK is for our stain of sin,
For which we merit Hell.

But with the next bright color comes
A message that brings joy.RED, the blood of Christ, was shed,
For every girl and boy!

His blood will cover all our sins,
And wash us WHITE as snow;
If we will just have faith in Him,
And that, we all should know.
BLUE is for our baptism,
A sign of new belief,
To show to the entire world
We're turning a new leaf.

Last of all, we come to GREEN,
The color of things growing,
As each of us shall grow in Christ,
His glory overflowing.

Now you know the gospel truth
My blanket's here to share,
About the Christ who died for us,
Our sin and shame to bare.

And if you want to hear some more,
The story more complete,
Ask the one who shared with you,
For telling it's a treat!

For a bracelet, the first stanza might be:

I have a little bracelet,
I keep it in my sight;
For hidden in its colored beads
Is a great delight.

For a scarf, the first stanza might be:

Look at this--my favorite scarf,
It keeps my body warm,
And in its squares a message, too,
Will keep my soul from harm

Of course, you can always use different colors and make your own style of scarf by just joining squares. Rainbow colors, or Crayon colors, or hearts or cancer ribbon colors would all make nice scarves.

Staggered Bricks Afghan

 Staggered Bricks Afghan
©2008, rev 2011 Sandra Petit,
http://www.crochetcabana.com

Materials:  H hook, needle, scissors,
Vanna's Choice worsted weight acrylic yarn in the following   colors:
beige - 6 skeins (21 ozs./1020 yds.)
rust - 2 skeins (7 ozs./340 yds.)
dusty green - 2 skeins (7 ozs./340 yds.)
honey - 2 skeins (7 ozs./340 yds.) 
brick - 1 skein (3.5 ozs. / 170 yds.)
black - 3 skeins (10.5 ozs. / 510 yds.)

Size:  55” x 57”

Abbreviations:
beg—beginning
ch—chain
dc—double crochet
hdc—half double crochet
sc—single crochet
sp—space
wk—work
shell = 3 dc
ch-1 = one chain that was previously made

Procedure:
Make 5-round granny squares in the following numbers and colors.  I suggest weaving ends in as you go on the squares.
24 beige, 6 rust, 6 dusty green, 6 honey, and 6 brick.

Granny Square Instructions:
Make an adjustable ring, or ch 4 and join with a slip stitch to form a ring.

Round 1: ch 3, 2 dc in ring, (ch 3, 3dc in ring) 3 times, ch 1, join with a hdc in top st of beg ch-3 (4 shells)

Round 2: in same sp wk (ch 3, 2 dc) (half of 1st corner),
ch 1, in next ch-3 sp wk (shell, ch 3, shell) (2nd corner),
ch 1, in next ch-3 sp wk (shell, ch3, shell) (3rd corner),
ch 1, in next ch-3 sp wk (shell, ch3, shell) (4th corner)
ch 1, in next ch-3 sp wk a shell, ch 1 (second half of 1st corner)
join with a hdc in top ch of beg ch-3. (8 shells)

Round 3: ch3, 2dc in same sp (half of 1st corner),
ch 1, shell in ch-1 sp between shells to form first side
ch 1, in next corner ch-3 sp work (shell, ch 3, shell), (2nd corner)
ch 1, shell in ch-1 sp between shells to form second side,
ch 1, in next corner ch-3 sp work (shell, ch 3, shell), (3rd corner)
ch 1, shell in ch-1 sp between shells to form third side
ch 1, in next corner ch-3 sp work (shell, ch 3, shell), (4th corner)
ch 1, shell in ch-1 sp between shells to form fourth side,
ch 1, in next ch-3 sp wk a shell, ch 1, join with a hdc in top ch of beg ch-3 (second half of 1st corner) (12 shells)

Round 4: ch3, 2dc in same sp (half of 1st corner), 
ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp, ch-1, shell in next ch-1 sp, (first side)
ch 1, in next corner ch-3 sp work (shell, ch 3, shell) (2nd corner)
ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp (second side),
ch 1, in next corner ch-3 sp work (shell, ch 3, shell), (3rd corner)
ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp (third side),
ch 1, in next corner ch-3 sp work (shell, ch 3, shell), (4th corner)
ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp (fourth side)
ch 1, in next ch-3 sp wk a shell, ch 1, join with a hdc in top ch of beg ch-3 (second half of 1st corner) (16 shells) 

Round 5: ch3, 2dc in same sp (half of 1st corner), 
ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp, ch1, shell in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp, (first side)
ch 1, in next corner ch-3 sp work (shell, ch 3, shell), (2nd corner)
ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp, ch1, shell in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp, (second side),
ch 1, in next corner ch-3 sp work (shell, ch 3, shell), (3rd corner)
ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp, ch1, shell in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp, (third side),
ch 1, in next corner ch-3 sp work (shell, ch 3, shell), (4th corner)
ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp, ch1, shell in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp, (fourth side)
ch 1, in next ch-3 sp work a shell, ch 3, join with a sl st in top ch of beg ch-3 OR use invisible finish off (second half of 1st corner) (20 shells)


Invisible Finish Off:
1) snip the yarn about 6" from the end and pull through,
2) thread a large eye needle with the strand you just cut, insert needle from front under top 2 strands of stitch to left of beginning ch-3, pull yarn through to back
3) Entering from front, insert needle under back loop of the last stitch completed, which is a chain.
4) Pull through to back and weave ends in on the wrong side as normal.

Assembly:
Using the continuous join as you go, join beige squares into into 2 rows of 4 squares (or 2 columns).  If you need more info on the continuous join, you can visit http://www.crochetcabana.com/tutorials/joining_squares3a.htm  or check YouTube for videos.

The chart shows the direction of the joins.

Use rust to join one group, dusty green to join another, and honey to join another.

Border each group of eight with black. If you want a different color for the border, don't forget to adjust your yarn purchase.

Tag each of the eight colored squares with a number:
1-rust, 2-dusty green, 3-brick, 4-honey, 5-honey, 6-rust, 7-dusty green, 8-honey

Using the continuous join as you go, join the colored squares into 2 rows of four squares (or 2 columns), using two squares of each color for each group. Squares in all groups will be in the same order.

When you are done with the first group, remove the tags and place them on the next group in the same order.  (Or you can tag each of the three groups individually if you’d rather.) If you are weaving ends in at this point, be careful not to catch your tag string or you won't be able to get it off.

The colored squares in each completed group of eight will lie next to each other horizontally or vertically depending on how you lay them out:

Border each colored square group with black (or whatever color you purchased for this purpose).

Whipstitch the groups together.

If you prefer to use the continuous join again here, you can do that, but you will be adding another round to your afghan, so the width and length will be different than stated. You will also need to adjust your yarn purchase to account for the additional yarn.

If desired, add a border of shells around entire afghan.

Weave in any remaining tails.

Here is a photo of the SAME afghan, but laid on the bed so the groups appear vertically rather than horizontally.

Launder in cold water, gentle cycle with Woolite or a detergent like All Free and Clear or baby detergent - something that is okay for allergy sufferers. Dry on low heat. Check to be sure all ends are secure and not poking out.

Surprise someone with this beautiful afghan!

Wavy Edged Scarf

Wavy Edged Scarf
©2008, rev. 2011 Sandra Petit,
http://www.crochetcabana.com

Materials: worsted weight yarn in two colors, H hook

Size: 6” x 48”

To adjust size, chain an even number.

Note1 - every row begins with a sc in first stitch. After the first stitch, you will sc if the next st is a ch space, and you will ch-1 and skip one if the next st is a sc.

Note2 - Row 1 is your RIGHT side. If you have trouble telling front from back, you might want to mark this side. You can use a strand of contrasting yarn, or a paper clip or a safety pin.

Abbreviations (American terminology):

sc - single crochet
ch - chain
dc - double crochet
st - stitch
hdc - half double crochet
tr - triple crochet

Instructions:
With Color A, chain 184.
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across (183)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in first sc, * ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next sc, repeat from * across. You should finish evenly, with a sc in your last st.

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc in first sc, sc in ch-1 space,  *chain 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch-1 space, repeat from * across row to last st, sc in last st, changing color on last st (If you work 2 rows of each color you don’t have to cut unused color, you can carry it along side)

Row 4: with Color B ch 1, turn, sc in first sc, * ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch-1 space,, repeat from * across. You should finish evenly, with a sc in your last st.

Rows 5 — 15:  Repeat rows 3 and 4 in the following color sequence, finishing on Row 3

Row 1-3: Color A
Row 4-5: Color B
Row 6-7: Color A
Row 8-9: Color B
Row 10-11: Color A
Row 12-13: Color B
Row 14-15: Color A

Row 16: with Color A, sc across, change to Color B

At this point you will start working in the round. You might consider this the edging.

Edging:
Round 17: With Color B, sc around entire piece, working (sc, hdc, sc) in corners
Note: My scarf was about 4 1/2” wide at this point

Round 18: Join Color A, ch 1, 2 dc in same spot as join, 2 dc in each sc around.

Alternate Edging for a wider piece:
Round 17: dc around entire piece, working (dc, tr, dc) in corners

Round 18: Join Color A, ch 1, 2 dc in same spot as join, 2 dc in each sc around.